What is there to know about Monterey County? First of all, it is in California… always a good starting point for a discussion of wine. When we drill down in the locale, we discover the beauty of Big Sur’s rugged shore; the beaches and artists in Carmel by the Sea; tide pools, and golf at Pebble Beach; and the rugged marine history of Cannery Row and Monterey Bay. Monterey County, specifically Monterey County wines, has long been a tourist destination attracting 4.6 million visitors annually, generating $2.8 billion in spending which supports 25,220 jobs. What sometimes gets overlooked in the macro-view of the County is that a combination of heat from the sun, ancient terroir and a mélange of traditional and innovative techniques used by growers and winemakers, makes the region a perfect area for producing world-class wines and the industry in Monterey County is valued at $1 billion each year. The Santa Lucia Highlands region and producers are making some of the best wines in California with more than 359 vineyards and 82 bonded wineries (an increase of 46 percent since 2012). There are more vineyards planted in Monterey than Napa (45,990), and Paso Robles (26,000 acres). Getting StartedThe Monterey wine story begins with the Franciscan friars from the Spanish mission of Soledad who planted wine grapes over 200 years ago. Sadly, these grapes died but the idea of a wine industry remained strong, and today over 40,000 acres of soil are growing grapes for wine. The re-awakening is fairly new and started in the early 1960s when Professor A.J. Winkler, a vinicultural authority from the University of California at Davis, published a report classifying grape growing districts by climate. Monterey County was designated as Region I and II, comparable with the premium regions of Napa, Sonoma, Burgundy and Bordeaux. Recognizing the enormous potential of this research, Wente, Mirassou, Paul Masson, J. Lohr and Chalone started vineyards planted in sizes that ranged from sixty to several thousand acres, making it one of the largest premium wine grapes growing regions in California. Beginning the Hahn DynastyBeginning in 2007, Philip Hahn, (heir to the Hahn family winery), has been the CEO of the operation. Philip spent his early years on the family’s SLH vineyard estate, learning about the wine industry from the ground – up and started pruning vines in winter and picking grapes in the fall. He left the vineyard to study international politics at the Georgetown University School of Foreign Service. This was followed by an 8-year journey on Wall Street, returning to the family wine estate in 2007. He continued his studies at Columbia, earning a Master’s degree in biotechnology in 2012. Hahn was recently in Manhattan on a public relations tour. His mission – to give a heads-up to east coast wine consumers…there are delicious wines being made in Monterey, California, and it is time to bring a few bottles home to enjoy, and for restauranteurs and food/beverage managers to add Hahn wines to their wine lists. Currently the Hahn family is the largest vineyard owner and producer in the region and also maintains a 50,000-acre wildlife preserve in Kenya, saving wildlife and strengthening the economy. Total production of all Hahn Family Wines is about 400,000 cases annually from winery facilities in Soledad and Lodi (Cycles Gladiator label), making the winery one of the top thirty producers in North America. Hahn HistoryThe current success of the Hahn brand was started by Nicolaus (Nicky) Hahn who was born in 1936 in Switzerland, the son of a Jewish banker from Frankfurt, Germany who moved to escape the Nazis. Hahn spent his childhood moving through England, Spain, Portugal, Cuba and Los Angeles. He attended grade school in NY, high school in Switzerland and university in Munich where he studied economics and met his wife Gaby. Hahn had a successful career in Paris and New York, and chaired Computer Associates, an international computer software company in London prior to moving to Monterey County. Hahn was interested in pioneering – finding something that had not been done before and in 1979 Nicolaus and Gaby Hahn purchased a former horse and cattle ranch in the hills above California’s Salinas Valley, an area known for agriculture but not grape growing. Hahn became the wine pioneer of the Santa Lucia Highlands and the man responsible for the appellation designation in the 1991. Hahn was able to turn the loam and granite hillsides of the east-facing slopes of Santa Lucia Highlands into world-class vineyards. His first attempt focused on Bordeaux varietals and then he realized that the cool climate was better for Burgundy and he turned to Chardonnay and Pinot in the late 1990s. The sloping hills provide good drainage while the terrain and soil characteristics are suitable for planting, cultivating and harvesting grapes far away from urbanization. Soil temperatures are cooler than other parts of the state which limits the size of the crop and increases grape and wine quality. Because the plantings are relatively new, the vineyard masters in Monterey County have been able to combine years of experimentation and the best of proven traditional methods with modern technology and scientific research, creating a unique wine region in the USA. There are enough warm days, a short frost season and small chances of unseasonable and damaging rains. A major attribute is the cool air from Monterey Bay, creating a longer growing season. Air in the southern part of the country warms at noon each day and rises, cool air from the Bay fills the void left by the rising warm air. Monterey County grapevines produce buds in the spring, 2 weeks earlier than vines in other regions and the fall harvest begins 2 weeks later than other regions. Local grapes remain on the vine a full month longer, developing the characteristic intensity of flavor. The slowing maturing fruit offers intense varietal flavors and an ideal sugar-acid balance, creating a unique product of quality Monterey County wines. County viticulturists frequently encourage ripening of the

Lia Tolaini Banville and her father, Pier Luigi Tolaini, started importing wines from Italy 16 years ago (2004), expanding the operation in 2016 to include wines from France, Germany and the UK. In 2011, Banville added Italian spirits to her portfolio, introduced a wholesale division and, a few years later, extended her reach to include Washington, DC and Virginia. Leading a team of 34 people, the Banville portfolio includes over 50 hand-picked domestic and international brands. The company believes that the best wines are products of great terroir with the vineyard and a sense of place adding to the quality of the wine. Inspired LeadershipLia Tolaini Banville was born in Canada and introduced to Italy and wine at the age of 6 when she and her father visited Aunt Laura in Lucca (Tuscany). Her aunt introduced her to cooking, wine and business. Graduating from the University of Manitoba in Canada, with majors in art and economics, Banville traveled to Florence to study art but turned to wine in 2004 when she started Donna Laura Chianti wines in Castelnuovo Beradenga, in memory of her aunt. Banville’s approach to viticulture and winemaking is very personal – she believes in nurturing and encouraging a wholesome environment shaped by her aunt with respect for the soil, vines and future of the land. Vineyard practices include green harvesting as necessary, planting cover crops to enrich the nutrients in the soil and eliminating the use of harmful chemicals to maintain a pristine, sustainable ecosystem. The winery incorporates organic principals, modern technology, limited use of sulfites and a sterile environment At a recent Manhattan event, I was introduced to many of the delicious and remarkable wines/spirits that are part of the Banville collection. These are a few of my personal favorites. Casoni Amaro. Emilia-Romagna, Italy. Includes: 20 botanicals, aromatic herbs, vegetables, burnt sugar, natural aromas, alcohol and water.In the mid-19th century, a time when Napoleon abdicated his position as the French Emperor and the Americans and the British were at war, Giuseppe Casoni began to distil liqueurs in the small town of Finale Emilia, bordering the provinces of Modena, Ferrara and Bologna, Italy. After WWII, Enea Casoni rebuilt the distillery and in 1970 passed on the business to his son Mario, who developed Casoni’s international profile and the company is now in its sixth generation of family management under his direction. The process producing Amaro includes cold extraction of minced aromatic herbs in a hydro-alcoholic solution over a 30-day period. The resulting liquid is poured into tanks where it rests for one month. After filtering, the Amaro rests for an additional 30-days to balance and blend all the aromatic flavors. Amaro should not be confused with amaretto, an Italian liqueur that is sweet and traditionally flavored with bits of apricot and/or almonds or with Amarone, a rich Italian dry red wine from Valpolicella. Notes. Goldenrod to the eye while spice, herbs and bitter orange mingle with cardamom and Absinthe enchant the nose. The palate is flooded with lovely syrupy viscous herbs and spices. Historically, amaro producers have claimed it is an aphrodisiac, a pain reliever and/or an antitoxin; however, most people agree that it is delicious as an aperitif or a digestif. It can be served neat, or over ice and/or paired with tonic, coke or ginger ale. Some bartenders add fresh lime juice and Europeans add orange juice; however, it also blends well with coffee and espresso. The vineyard is located in the heart of the Cote de Beaune, between Beaune and Volnay (once the home of the Dukes of Burgundy). The village is surrounded by slopes of densely planted vineyards, at altitudes from 250-330m – facing east and southeast. Pommard produces one of the most renowned AOC’s of France. Clos de la Chapelle is under the auspices of the Notre Dame de Pitie – dedicated in 1540 when the Chapel was constructed. History suggests that it was the winegrowers’ prayers at the Notre Dame de Pitie that saved the population from cholera (1840). In 1870 – 1871 the Prussians were turned away from the village, in deference to the chapel and powers of Notre Dame de Pitie. During the domain’s early period, Louis Pasteur requested 50 bottles of wine from Victor Boillot as samples to use in his research and testing of wine diseases. The Emperor (Napoleon III) recognized Pasteur’s research as, “being capable of saving millions of francs for France.” Pasteur’s letters to Victor Boillot spanning several decades provides details concerning the alteration of the non-heated wines and arrived at the conclusion that, “one heating was enough to protect the wines from germs and keep them during transportation.” Notes. Following the harvest, the grapes cold soak for 5-days at 30 degrees C in temperature-controlled vats. The wine ferments for 5-7 days with one punch down and one pump-over per day. The wine is then aged between 12-18 months and bottled without fining or filtration Deep ruby red to the eye, the nose finds aromas of minerality and black fruit plus mint chocolate. The palate is delighted with soft and round tannins leading to a soft but sensuous cherry finish. This is a full-bodied red and amazingly delicious. Best served at room temperature with Boeuf Bourguignon, Coq au Vin or strong cheese. The Alex Cooper Project is a partnership between sommelier and restauranteur Rodney Alex, music producer Rick Cooper and Doug Rafanelli (third generation farmer) and winemaker Guy Davis of Davis Family Vineyards. The wine is a late harvest selection of grapes from Rafanelli’s vineyard. Rodney Alex has been in the wine business in Chicago for over 20 years. The Alex Cooper Project was his first foray into the winemaking. Inspired by his first wine experience (Beringer White Zinfandel), he developed a lifetime interest in the industry. When he graduated from Loyola University (1955) he got a job in sales with Direct Import wine Company. After years in sales, he transitioned to the restaurant industry, serving as a waiter, moving into management and then

Incredible tourism opportunities Lugana, located in the vinicultural region of northern Italy, sits at the southern end of Lake Garda. Lugana, derived from the Latin Lacus Lucanus (lake in the woods) is noted for its wines, and the region also offers incredible tourism opportunities as the religious influences from the Middle Ages especially in the towns of San Benedetto di Lugana, San Vigilie di Lugana and San Martino di Lugana are well preserved and accessible. Why WinesResearch suggests that ancient grape seeds found in Peschiera del Garda are from vines grown in this area since the Bronze Age (or before). The white wines are also documented in Andrea Bacci’s 1595 book, De Naturali Vinorum Historia (On the Natural History of Wines). In addition, Lugana was the first D.O.C. registered in Lombardy, and one of the earliest in Italy. Currently the Lugana DOC is comprised of 2700 acres of vineyards that run from the fishing villages and castle-filled towns of Desenzano to Peschiera, and include parts of Lonato, Pozzolengo and Simione. An important factor supporting the Lugana vinous success is its mild microclimate, unusual for northern Italy as the weather is tempered by the Lake and while the summers are hot, they are not scorching and the winters are mild. The Lake keeps spring frosts at bay and there is always a breeze keeping the vineyards ventilated and grapes healthy all the way through to the harvest. A large part of the area’s soil (approximately 5,436 acres under vine) are on low-lying plains with dense soil that covers a bed of mineral–rich moraine. Light colored soil of glacial origins tied to the creation of Lake Garda confers minerality to the wines, as well as savory notes, longevity and structure. Lugana Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wines account for approximately 90 percent of total production, and the remaining areas are designated as Superiore or Riserva releases, or produced as sparkling or late-harvest selections. More than 17.5 million bottles were produced in 2018 with 70 percent exported to the US – the denomination’s 4th largest market. Grapes. What Is in a NameUntil the early 2000s the grapes from this region was called Trebbiano di Lugana or Trebbiano di Soave. However, local producers and wine experts thought it was not the correct identification and recent DNA tests determined that the grape’s genome boasts characteristics inconsistent with other Trebbianos (a close relative of Verdicchio). Because Turbiana is different than the other grape varieties it was renamed Turbiana, the local name for this indigenous variety. It ripens late and thrives in the lake microclimate and produces less than many other varieties (a factor in quality winemaking). The DOC permits up to 10 percent of other non-aromatic white varieties in Lugana; however, nearly all producers use Turbiana exclusively. Grape ExpectationsThe grapes and the wines they produce are praised for their freshness, fruit concentration, underlying floral and spice notes and light acidity. Crisp and floral, the wines offer juicy citrus, white stone fruit and almonds. Lugana Superiore’s are aged for one year and present wild herb and saline notes. Riserva’s, released after 2 years of aging, present flinty mineral and spice. Most wines are vinified in stainless steel with prolonged skin contact on the lees. Superiore and Riserva are frequently aged in both steel and wood – adding complexity without overwhelming oak. Lugana can age for 2-3 years with Superiore and Riserva selections developing well for many years. At a recent Lugana focused wine event in Manhattan I was introduced to the wines of the region. The following are a few of my personal favorites. 2018 Tenuia Roveglia Limne (Greek name for Lake Garda). 100 percent Turbiana. Soil – flat with stratified clay of morainic origin, calcareous and rich in mineral salts.Roveglia was started by the Swiss industrialist, Federico Zweifel, who moved to Lombardy at the end of the 19th century. He acquired the farmhouse, Cascina Roveglia, grew grapes and made wine for his private use on a small scale. In the early nineties the winery was renovated, old vines repaired and supplemented with new Trebbiano vines. His son, Giusto Zweifel, took over the leadership of the vineyard. In the 1980s a new generation stepped in and son-in-law, Giovanni Felice Azzone, a member of the Lincean Academy (Italy’s Royal Society), brought research, science and technology to winemaking. This vineyard is the most extensive in the area of Lugana, south of Lake Garda (175 acres of vineyards within the more than 245 acres of the estate), and is one of the few in the heart of the earlier Premier Cru zone of the former DOC Lugana. Today the estate is led by the fourth generation of the Zweifel family. Viticulture and production are controlled by Paolo Fabiani and Cesare Ferrari. Under their direction, Tenuta Roveglia Lugana Limne has become one of the best-known wines in the Lugana region with Gambero Rosso consistently awarding the estate Two Glasses. Notes. Gentle yellow to the eye, fragrant and refreshing to the nose, this savory white opens with delicate scents of white spring flowers, orchard fruit and a whisper of crushed herb. The tangy palate presents white peaches, yellow pears and a hint of nectarine that lingers on to the crisp finish. Pair with poultry, light pasta, and seafood (think shrimp and white bean bruschetta). 2018 Ottella Le Creete. 100 percent Turbiana. White Clay, sand, and stones. San Benedetto di Lugana.Azienda Agricol Ottella started in 1880 by the Montresor family who had been growing grapes for generations. The vineyard is located at the southern end of Lake Garda, near Peshiera del Garda in the DOC (northwest Italy). The name Ottella is derived from a legend – that octuplets were born at the farm in the 16th century. The winery remains in the family and is owned by Lodovico, Francesco and Michele Montresor. They manage 25 ha (61.75 acres) of Trebbiano di Lugana (Turbiana). The soil is of glacial origin with varying layers of sediment – thin layers of loamy and rough clay.

Initial QuestThe 17th century marks the beginning of the wine industry in South Africa. The year was 1655 when the first grapes were planted by a Dutch settler. The first bottle was produced in Cape Town by Jan van Riebeeck, the Dutch station manager for the Dutch East India Company who arrived in 1652 to establish a refreshment station – supplying fresh produce to its merchant fleet at the Cape of Good Hope. Why produce wines? It appears that the intent of his venture was to keep scurvy away from the sailors during their voyages along the spice routes to India and the East. His first harvest was February 2, 1659, 7 years after landing (1652). Simon van de Stel followed Riebeeck, and was able to improve the quality of the viticulture and increased the number of acres, establishing the Constantia wine estate. Upon his death, the winery went fallow until 1778, when it was purchased by Hendrik Cloete. Even in the 18th century, the wines of South Africa were popular and European aristocrats preferred these wines and it was a favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte. The sweet wines from Constantia were considered among the world’s best in the 18th and 19th centuries. Because of distance, political and social issues, growers stopped making wine, turning the soil over to orchards and alfalfa fields to feed the growing ostrich feather industry. As time and economics changed, growers started to replant grapevines, selecting high-yielding grapes (i.e., Consault) and by the early 1900s more than 80 million vines had been replanted which, unfortunately, created a “wine lake” -producers, focusing on quantity over quality, were making unsaleable wine and poured it into local rivers and streams. There definitely was an imbalance between supply and demand, creating depressed prices. This critical situation prompted the government to form Kooperatieve Wiibouwers Vereiging Van Zuid-Afrika Bpkt (KWV) in 1918. The organization was tasked with setting policies and prices for the entire South African wine industry. To deal with the wine glut, the KWV restricted yields and set minimum prices, encouraging production of brands and fortified wines. 20th Century MindfulIn the 1990s, Apartheid ended and the world’s export markets opened for the wines from South Africa. Producers adopted new viticulture, winemaking techniques and technology, focusing on Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The reorganization of KWV into a private enterprise sparked innovation and improvement in quality, forcing vineyard owners and wineries to become competitive and the focus of wine making shifted from quantity to quality. By 2003, 70 percent of the grapes harvested reached the consumer market as wine. Currently, 93,021 ha of vines produce wine grapes and are under cultivation in South Africa over an area approximately 498 miles in length. The major vineyards are centered near Constantia, Paarl, Stellenbosch and Worcester. There are approximately 60 appellations in the Wine of Origin (WO) system that was started in 1973 with a hierarchy of designated production regions, districts and wards. WO wines must contain: Grapes from the specific area of originSingle vineyards must come from a defined area of less than 5 haEstate Wine may come from adjacent farms if they are farmed together and wine is produced on the siteA ward is an area with a distinctive soil type or climate and approximately equivalent to a European appellationSustainable Wine GrowingOver 95 percent of the South African wine industry follows sustainable wine-growing and winemaking principles. For the 2010 vintage, the country introduced “The Seal,” a label that certifies that a wine has been produced sustainably, that it was bottled within the nation’s borders and it is 100 percent South African. Going for the GrapesIn 1925, Abraham Perold, the first viticulture professor at Stellenbosch University, cross pollinated Pinot Noir with Hermitage to develop Pinotage, a brand-new grape variety. Pinotage did not appear as a wine until 1959 and it presents the cherry fruit of Pinot Noir with the earthiness of a Rhone wine. In 1946, Distell, one of the largest South African wine producers, opened the first modern research and quality control center and in 1955, the Viticultural and Oenological Research Institute was started. New research and technology helped protect local production from diseases as phylloxera, that had destroyed millions of Cape vines in 1885. Currently white varieties make up over 55 percent of the plantings for wine, with Chenin Blanc responsible for 18.6 percent of the total. Red-wine varieties account for 44.8 percent of the national vineyards. The most widely planted red varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, (11 percent), Shiraz (10.3 percent), Pinotage, (7.4 percent) and Merlot, (5.8 percent). ClimateThe moderate climate of the Western Cape’s peninsula region offers ideal terroir for grape cultivation and the fertile soil supports agriculture in the southern coastal areas that are influenced by the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. The Mediterranean climate delivers intense sunlight and dry heat. Winters are cold and wet with opportunities for snow at higher elevations. Springtime frost is rare as there is usually a warm growing season between November and April. In many regions’ irrigation is essential. EconomicsWine production in South Africa ranks 9th in world wine production, producing 3.4 percent of the world’s wine (2018). Over 300,000 people are employed directly and indirectly in the wine industry (2015), including farmer labor, packaging, retailing and wine tourism. Over US$2.45 billion GDP is contributed to the wine industry in the regional economy, with about US$1.334 billion remaining in the Western Cape, benefiting the residents. Exports of still (non-fortified) packaged wines (2018), reached 163.9 million liters, a decrease of 3.8 percent on the previous year. Red wine exports declined by 8.7 percent with total exports decreasing by 6.3 percent to 420.2 liters in 2018. Major exports are to USA, Germany, France, and The Netherlands. Wines. My SuggestionsAt a recent wine trade event in Manhattan, I had the good fortune to be introduced to a few incredibly unique Chardonnay and Pinot Noir South African wines. My personal favorites follow: 2017 Vergelegen Reserve. 100 percent Chardonnay. StellenboschStellenbosch was settled on the banks of the Eerste

Bordeaux Winemakers Started EarlyBordeaux, formerly known as Burdigala, dates back to the 3rd century when the Celtic tribes decided to settle in a beautiful spot, located on the western coast of the Baronne River. Latin Poet, Ausonius, first recorded mention of wine production in Bordeaux in AD 350 and a château still bears his name, the “Château Ausone.” In addition to the natural grandeur, it was a transit point between the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean Sea and the Iberian Peninsula. As wine making was initiated and trade grew, the residents became prosperous. Others found the locale delightful and by 56 AD, Julius Caesar and his lieutenant, Crassus, had conquered the area and prosperity continued to increase, making the city a major commercial center during the Roman Empire. For the next 3 centuries the wine trade developed as did massive building and construction, including an amphitheater, temples, and luxurious homes, making it one of the largest cities in south Gaul with a population of over 20,000. During the following centuries, Bordeaux experienced a complex mix of politics, economics, and love affairs – finally arriving at the 12th century – a golden age for the city. Artisans settled in the faubourgs, (the parts of the town outside the walls), the wine trade, conducted mainly with the English, was the main reason for the accumulation of wealth by the bourgeois of the Bordelaise and it marked the beginning of a democracy, allowing citizens to have a role in local government. Grapevine historyGrapevines have been growing in the Bordeaux region for more than 2000 years. During the Roman occupation a resistant grapevine was imported (perhaps from the Balkans), called Biturica. During the spread of Christianity, wine played a part in the religious services and, as the population grew – so did the increase in grape growing. Claret, a dark rose wine prized by the English court, established a monopoly of wine exported to England and vine growing expanded to Fronsac, Saint-Emillion, Cadilac, Langon. The cultivation of grapes, and the production of wine in Bordeaux was unlike other French wine regions for here the industry was developed by merchants and not by monks. During the 17th and 18th centuries the Dutch imported the wines of Bordeaux due to its long preservation qualities. It was also during this period that Dutch engineers drained the marshy Medoc and vineyards were planted creating Laffite, Latour and Margaux vineyards (approximately 1690). The early 18th century saw the rise of the Bordeaux merchant class and in 1855, Classification of the Medoc, Sauternes and Barsac was introduced. On the 18th of April 1855 the first official rating of the gran vis from Bordeaux was established on the occasion of the Universal Exhibition of Paris. The wine producers prospered until the mid-1870s, and the arrival of phylloxera. From 1918 to 1930 Bordeaux was negatively impacted by the war and recession, the closure of the Russian market, and prohibition in the USA – forcing the sale of many Chateaux. By 1936, the economy started to improve and during this period, the Appellation Controllee for Bordeaux was established. Unfortunately, the years between 1940-1944 saw the German occupation of Bordeaux and it was not until 1955 that St. Emilion received its Classification and it was also the time for the emergence of St Emilion and Pomerol as important regions. By 1959 there was a reclassification of the red/white wines of the Graves (first done in 1953). In the 1960s there was a re-emergence of important export markets and money began to be reinvested in vineyards and chateaux were revitalized. Unfortunately, Bordeaux experienced the stock market crash of 1973 and the wine trading export company Cruse scandal that focused on charges of illegal use of chemicals to upgrade products and mislabeling the wines (resulting in a 240-page verdict and 8 convictions). The scandal reduced the US demand for Bordeaux wine (back to 1969 levels) and many chateau producers (who had not played a role in the deception) suffered the consequences. Traders stopped dealing the negociants, returning to the direct sales methods. The négociant system (Place de Bordeaux) had been the Bordeaux business model. Chateaux sold allocations to négociants every spring following the harvest and they, in turn, were in charge of selling and distributing the wine to wholesalers, importers and merchants. The government, responding to the scandal, introduced tighter regulations and added importance to the phrase, “mis en bouteille au chateau,” encouraging minimal intermediary involvement. Many négociants were saved from bankruptcy by foreign investment, heralding the beginning of corporate chateaux. By 1982 global economies had begun to improve and legendary vintages prospered along with global affluence. Bordeaux TodayBordeaux is the largest wine growing region in France and includes approximately 280,000 acres of vineyards, 6,100 estate owners and growers and 100 (+/-) superstar chateaux that provide the reputation of a vintage. It is the wine from these estates that draws attention of the world to the region, especially in the spring, during en primeur when the newest wines are available first for tasting and later for purchase as futures. Traditionally a French chateau is used to describe a grand country house owned by an aristocratic family; however, in Bordeaux, the term is used to describe a wine estate with its own winery and vineyards. Some chateau (i.e., Margaux and Haut-Brion), do have a manor house and many have only a small house or two for the owners and workers. Research for the Wine IndustryUlysse Ribereau-Gayon (University of Bordeaux), the former assistant to Louis Pasteur, found the solution to mildew with Bouille Bordelaise, a mixture of copper sulphate and lime. Bordeaux is also the birthplace for the science of winemaking, oenology. Ribereau-Gayon’s grandson, Jean, started the first Institute of Oenology at Bordeaux University (1949) and, with Emile Peynaud, discovered malolactic fermentation. This work continues at the Faculty of Oenology of Bordeaux based at the Institute of the Science of Vine and Wine (ISVV). Bordeaux is at the forefront of research and technology, although it has a reputation

Searching for a WOW to pour into your wine glass? My suggestion: Wine from Kosovo, especially the 2018 Stone Castle, Rose, Pinot Noir, Rahoveci Valley. Don’t Get PuzzledSome people confuse Costco with Kosovo. Recently, as I was pouring wine into a glass, and brought attention to the beautiful coral hue, I mentioned that the wine was from Kosovo and really delicious. The reply, “I did not know that Costco sold excellent wines.” “No! Not Costco…Kosovo (!) the country that is located in a region of south-eastern Europe that was, at one time, an autonomous province within the former Yugoslavia. With a population of approximately 2 million people, it is bordered by Serbia (north and east), North Macedonia (southeast), Albania (southwest) and Montenegro (west) with the Albanian Alps and Sar Mountains rising in the southwest and southeast. I went on to explain that up until the time of a civil war, Kosovo had a large number of productive vineyards. Sadly, during the conflict many wineries were permitted to go fallow – and it has taken years for the industry to recover. HistoryThe wine industry, in what is now known as the Republic of Kosovo, dates back more than 2000 years. Until the mid-20th century most wines were homemade and produced by subsistence peasant farmers for their own enjoyment and sold to neighbors. In the 1950s the Yugoslav regime, noting the potential for industrial wine production, created three large “wine factories” and supported the production of wines until the mid-1980s. The conflict seriously impacted on the wine industry. Before the war, exports were heavily focused on a single wine brand to a single export market. Amselfedler (blackbird fields), a sweet red wine from Pinot Noir and Gamay was a very desirable beverage in Germany. Millions of cases were exported each year and there was huge demand…and then there was the war. Wine from Kosovo with its place in the German wine market was usurped by similarly styled wines – such as a red from Valencia, Spain and it successfully replaced Kosovo within 18 months after the start of the Kosovan war. War Stops Production – 1990sWine production and exports stopped for almost 10 years. The vineyards that were not damaged were abandoned and the demand for the sweet wine disappeared from Kosovo as other countries entered the market. When the war stopped, several state-owned wineries were privatized, and the largest, Stone Castle, in the southwest part of Kosovo in Rahovec, was acquired. The sunny climate combined with a historically important reputation for Pinot Noir immediately placed the winery on the list of “businesses to watch.” Wine from Kosovo as an industry includes approximately 5,000 ha of land, 4100 grape growers in 7 regions with a total production in excess of 33 million tons from 7 vineyards (2004). The industry employs 1300 agricultural works, 120 family producers and includes 12 wineries of which 4 are privately owned. Wine making is an economic engine and an important export. Total exports of wine and grape-based alcohol exceeded 4.5 million Euro in 2013, an increase of over 32 percent since 2010. PrivatizationStone Castle vineyards and winery was formerly known as NBI Rahoveci. It was built in 1952 and, and in August 2006, sold by the United Nations trust agency responsible for disposing of socially owned assets to Rrustem Gecaj, Hysen Gecaj and Harry Bajraktari (from the USA) for 5 million Euros and they committed to investing an additional 5 million Euros to bring it into the 21st century. Currently Stone Castle is considered one of the best operating enterprises in the country, with 5552 acres of premium vineyards and land under cultivation. The winery has a capacity for producing 10-13 million liters of wine each year, and there is an opportunity to process approximately 70,000 tons of wine grapes annually. A recent investment of over US $15 million enabled the new owners to introduce modern technology and a bottling line, added stainless steel receival bins, de-stemmers, and must pumps, while providing professional training and revitalizing the vines. The underground wine cellar has a storage capacity of 50,000 HL in wooden barrels, making it one of the largest privately owned wineries in Europe. Wine Enthusiast Awards have been given to the Stone Castle 2013 Shiraz, the Stone Castle 2014 Premium Vranca, Stone & Castle Amphora Red and Stone Castle 2015 Royal Riesling. Currently Stone Castle wines are available in the Balkans, Germany, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Croatia, Albania, Canada, Africa and the US. The Grapes of KosovoUntil recently there was no match between supply and demand for wine from Kosovo farmers and the demand for wine grapes. USAID, recognizing the issue, intervened and in 2013, through the New Opportunities for Agriculture project, started to convert a portion of Kosovo’s wine grape vineyards, assisting farmers to regraft the vines to produce more lucrative grapes. The regrafting process preserves the rootstock but changes the fruiting variety that grows from the stock. The process is less expensive than uprooting and replanting a vineyard. The process starts with pruning back the vine, then a short shoot (scion) of a new variety is inserted into the rootstock and, within a month, the tissues of the rootstock and scion merge and harvests can resume the following season. The primary diseases are powdery mildew and a variety of bunch rots. The continental climate, fields located at a height of 300-400 meters above sea level and more than 200 sunny days a year make Kosovo an excellent locale for wine production. Grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Riesling, and local varieties including Vranac, Prokupac (red) and Smederevka (white). Raki, a local brandy, is made from fermented and distilled grapes. There is ample rainfall during the summer; however, it increases the humidity in the canopy. Temperatures can be as low as -20 degrees C during the winter and higher than 40 degrees C in the summer. The vines are hand-pruned in January or February and the vineyard is ploughed approximately 7 times

My list of recommended wine brands did not include the Sud De France wine brand; in fact, it was not even on the list. Sud De France showcases the richness and beauty of the area, which is situated in the middle of the Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc-Roussillon. Occitanie is the region’s new name, chosen due to the languages’ historical importance and the Occitan language itself. The Occitanie is a region that resembles the territory ruled by the Counts of Toulouse in the 12th and 13th centuries, and the Occitan cross, which they used, is now a well-known cultural icon. Occitanie became official on June 24, 2016, and includes the following locales and population: Toulouse (479,553)Montpellier (285,121)Nîmes (150,610)Perpignan (120,158)Béziers (77,177)Montauban (60,810)Narbonne (54,700)Albi (50,759)Carcassonne (47,365)The area is located between two mountain ranges, the Massif Central in the north, and Pyrenean foothills in the south, and between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the wines in the Languedoc-Roussillon area are blends of important traditional red varieties including Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre. Current plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. The most important white varieties are Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Rousanne Viognier and Ugni Blanc with a growing interest in Chardonnay. Although this portion of France has notable wine achievements, its history is obscure, except for historians and academics who focus on the economics and political foundations of the wine industry. Research suggests that the Languedoc-Roussillon region was first settled by the Greeks who planted vineyards in this area in the 5th century BC. From the 4th through the 19th century, Languedoc was noted for producing high-quality wines but this changed with the arrival of the industrial age when production pivoted toward le gros rouge, mass produced cheap red table wine used to satisfy the growing workforce. Languedoc became renowned for producing vast quantities of poor plonk that was served in massive quantities to the French troops during WWI. Fortunately, this focus has passed into history, and the area now produces quality wines. Currently local winemakers produce wines from Bordeaux style reds to Provence inspired roses. Years ago, I had the good fortune to review this part of the planet and was introduced to the biodynamic approach to grape growing and winemaking from the perspective of Gerard Bertrand. What I did not know, was the tumultuous history of the region and how the actions and activities of the early 20th century wine industry participants and the French government created the foundation for the current state of the wine industry in the Occitanie region. We do not usually think of people in the wine industry as being revolutionaries and certainly not militant; however, in 1907 French winegrowers from Languedoc-Roussillon led a mass protest estimated to number approximately 600,000 – 800,000 people. In 1908 lower Languedoc had a population of one million people, so, one of every two Languedocans demonstrated, paralyzing the region and challenging the state. Why were the French “up in arms?” They were threatened by wines imported from the French colony of Algeria through the port of Sete, and by chaptalization (adding sugar before fermentation to increase alcohol content). Members of the wine industry revolted, and demonstrations included all levels of the industry – from grape growers and farm workers to estate owners and winemakers. The wine industry had not experienced such a crisis since the outbreak of phylloxera (1870-1880). The situation was dire: winemakers could not sell their product leading to high unemployment and everyone feared that things would get worse. At the time, the French government thought that importing Algerian wine was a good idea as a way to address the decline in French wine production which was a result of phylloxera. From 1875 to 1889, one-third of the total French vine area was destroyed by this root eating insect and French wine production declined by approximately 70 percent. As phylloxera spread, many French winegrowers migrated to Algeria and introduced their technology and expertise to the region where grapes had been growing since the first millennium BC; however, centuries of Muslim rule created a local population that did not consume alcohol. The good news? Wine consumption in France remained the same! In a shortsighted attempt to deal with the shortage issue, the French government encouraged wine production in its Algerian colony while limiting imports from Spain or Italy. When the phylloxera crisis was resolved by grafting American root stock onto French wines, the French wine industry started to recover and slowly production returned to a pre-crises level of 65 million hectoliters. However, the Algerian wines continued to flood the market at a lower price (decline of over 60 percent over 25-year period), negatively impacting French producers. 1910 postcard displaying an image of wine shipments departing from Oran, Algeria for France. Image from Wikimedia CommonsProtests French wine producers wanted limits set on imported wine and started to demonstrate through street protests and violence (actions directes) including mutinies, pillage, and the burning of public buildings. in June 9, 1907, the Revolte (Grande Revolte, Revolt of the Languedoc winegrowers; also known as the Paupers Revolt of the Midi) included tax strikes, violence, and the defection of many army regiments creating an atmosphere of crisis that was repressed by the government of George Clemenceau. Although the uprising was regional, the National Assembly feared that this southern movement was actually an attack on the French Republic. In response to the demonstrations, the French government increased tariffs on wine imports from Italy and Spain which was another mistake as it further increased the consumption of tariff-free imports from Algeria. Once again, French producers (including Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy) went after the government “encouraging” them to stop the inflow of Algerian wines as they wanted to protect their own “high quality wine” markets. They forced the introduction of new legislation, supporting the political representatives from the regions that agreed with their position. This fear proved to be an illusion and the movement ultimately ended in compromise, disappointment and what appeared to be a victory for

Languedoc-Roussillon Wines Languedoc wines are renowned for their subtlety and complexity and are now regarded as some of the most fascinating and dynamic wines in the world. The area produces lots of wine, exceeding production of Bordeaux, Australia, South Africa and Chile combined, representing about one-third of the French volume output that equals approximately three billion bottles of wine each year from 300,000 hectares of vine under cultivation. The largest consumers of these wines (2019) are Germany (16 percent), the USA (13 percent), the Netherlands (11 percent), the UK (10 percent), Belgium (10 percent), and China (8 percent) from 30 appellations and crus including white, red, rose, sparkling and sweet wines. The sector employs approximately 165,000 people and is the region’s largest employer, ahead of tourism and the aeronautics industry. Merger Generates New NameIn 2014 regions of France were reorganized and the former areas of Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc-Roussillon merged to create the Occitanie region. Following the merger, Occitanie became France’s largest vineyard in one continuous space in the entire world, including 263,000 hectares under vine, producing 33 percent of French wines. It encompasses 24,000 wine farms and 380 cooperatives with 36 percent of winegrowers focusing on organic farming. The Languedoc makes up approximately 90 percent of the territory; Roussillon occupies the other 10 percent. Together they represent France’s largest wine-producing region and vineyard area and more than one in three French wines are produced here. This is the birthplace of sparkling wines, although Champagne gets the credit. The Occitanie wine region has 87 AOP (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) appellations and 36 PGI (Protected Geographical Indications) designations and winegrowers are able to independently determine whether (or not) they want to produce AOP or PGI wines. First to SparkleIn 1531, at the Abbaye de Saint Hilaire (Limoux), monks found that the wine they were making started to bubble in the bottle and the rest is history. It is likely that Dom Perignon visited the abbey before residing in Champagne and “borrowed” the idea of making sparkling wine and started the process in Champagne. The three sparkling appellations of the area include Cremant de Limoux, Blanquette de Limoux, and Limoux Methode ancestral. Thomas Jefferson is known to have loved the Limoux’s fizz and it was the only sparkling wine in the personal cellar of the president. Sud de France With the desire to highlight the accomplishments of the Occitanie region, in 2006, Sud de France was started as a way to increase the arrival of tourists to its locale and offers a quality guarantee. The branding was the idea of George Freche, president of the Regional Council (2004) who noticed that, in spite of the area’s numerous economic and cultural assets, it kept a very low profile and he was determined to change this situation. Through Sud de France all agri-food and wine products of the Languedoc-Roussillon region are promoted under a single umbrella for marketing purposes. The group is currently directed by Carole Delga and includes 1,817 companies representing 5,882 products. Carole Delga in 2013. President, Regional Council of Occitanie; Member, Socialist PartyFrench politician, Carole Delga, is a member of the Socialist Party (since 2004) and has served as the President of Occitanie since 2016. From 2012-2017 she was a member of the National Assembly and served on the Finance and Defense Committee. In 2014 she briefly served as Secretary of State for Trade, Crafts, Consumer and Social Economy and Solidarity under Minister of Finance and Public Account, Michel Sapin in the government of Prime Minister Manuel Valls. Delga is noted for acknowledging the former Languedoc-Roussillon region during the creation of Occitanie (an area with 6 million citizens), not focusing on Toulouse and including local residents in her plans and programs. Occitanie/Sud de France StrengthsThe weather in the area is a plus for grape growing as the strong winds bring moisture from the sea and delivers fresh mountain air to dry the vines. The soil runs from clay-limestone (regulates soil temperature) to schist (slate) in Saint Chinian and to clay and chalk in Picpoul de Pinet. The Languedoc-Roussillon offers 30+ Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) with Corbieres, Fitou, Minervois and Cotes de Roussillon most noted in the USA. The locale is also known for its Vin de Pays wines where flexible wine laws allow innovation and winemakers produce interesting, fruit forward wines, many with depth, concentration and the potential for ageing. Winemakers are also allowed to source grapes from vineyards throughout the region and, through the Sud de France branding, consumers are able identify and select wines that meet the price/quality equation. The label, Sud de France, currently includes over 11,000 products (of which 2,100 are organic), following 24 different sets of rules. All products are reviewed by an independent group with the goal of improving name recognition in foreign markets, and a geographical focus on Europe, China and the USA. Tourism Near to Barcelona, Occitanie includes Languedoc-Roussillon and Mid-Pyrenees regions and noted by the charm of Montpellier, Toulouse and Perpignan offering the beauty of the South of France with fewer visitors than Paris and Provence. The locale presents beaches, vineyards, national parks and cultural sites, alongside hiking, biking and horseback riding trails. Because it is a notable wine producing zone and the birthplace of sparkling wine in the town of Limoux the wine/culinary adventure is superb especially in Collioure (anchovies) and Set (fish and oysters). Roussillon Wine ThoughtsAt a recent wine event in New York City, I had the good fortune to meander through a number of excellent wines from Roussillon. The following are a few of my favorites: Domaine Cabirau, AOP Cotes du Roussillon 2013. 70 percent Grenache Noir, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Carigan Noir.President Dan Kravitz purchased 13.5 acres of vineyards in Roussillon (appellation of Cotes du Roussillon created in 1977), is in the village of Maury (French part of Catalonia) in 2007. Roussillon is known for the production of dry, red, white and rose wines. The area includes the eastern half of the Pyrenees Orientales (eastern side of