Wine

Sud De France: History of Winemaking

My list of recommended wine brands did not include the Sud De France wine brand; in fact, it was not even on the list. Sud De France showcases the richness and beauty of the area, which is situated in the middle of the Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc-Roussillon. Occitanie is the region’s new name, chosen due to the languages’ historical importance and the Occitan language itself. The Occitanie is a region that resembles the territory ruled by the Counts of Toulouse in the 12th and 13th centuries, and the Occitan cross, which they used, is now a well-known cultural icon. Occitanie became official on June 24, 2016, and includes the following locales and population: Toulouse (479,553)Montpellier (285,121)Nîmes (150,610)Perpignan (120,158)Béziers (77,177)Montauban (60,810)Narbonne (54,700)Albi (50,759)Carcassonne (47,365)The area is located between two mountain ranges, the Massif Central in the north, and Pyrenean foothills in the south, and between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the wines in the Languedoc-Roussillon area are blends of important traditional red varieties including Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre. Current plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. The most important white varieties are Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Rousanne Viognier and Ugni Blanc with a growing interest in Chardonnay. Although this portion of France has notable wine achievements, its history is obscure, except for historians and academics who focus on the economics and political foundations of the wine industry. Research suggests that the Languedoc-Roussillon region was first settled by the Greeks who planted vineyards in this area in the 5th century BC. From the 4th through the 19th century, Languedoc was noted for producing high-quality wines but this changed with the arrival of the industrial age when production pivoted toward le gros rouge, mass produced cheap red table wine used to satisfy the growing workforce. Languedoc became renowned for producing vast quantities of poor plonk that was served in massive quantities to the French troops during WWI. Fortunately, this focus has passed into history, and the area now produces quality wines. Currently local winemakers produce wines from Bordeaux style reds to Provence inspired roses. Years ago, I had the good fortune to review this part of the planet and was introduced to the biodynamic approach to grape growing and winemaking from the perspective of Gerard Bertrand. What I did not know, was the tumultuous history of the region and how the actions and activities of the early 20th century wine industry participants and the French government created the foundation for the current state of the wine industry in the Occitanie region. We do not usually think of people in the wine industry as being revolutionaries and certainly not militant; however, in 1907 French winegrowers from Languedoc-Roussillon led a mass protest estimated to number approximately 600,000 – 800,000 people. In 1908 lower Languedoc had a population of one million people, so, one of every two Languedocans demonstrated, paralyzing the region and challenging the state. Why were the French “up in arms?” They were threatened by wines imported from the French colony of Algeria through the port of Sete, and by chaptalization (adding sugar before fermentation to increase alcohol content). Members of the wine industry revolted, and demonstrations included all levels of the industry – from grape growers and farm workers to estate owners and winemakers. The wine industry had not experienced such a crisis since the outbreak of phylloxera (1870-1880). The situation was dire: winemakers could not sell their product leading to high unemployment and everyone feared that things would get worse. At the time, the French government thought that importing Algerian wine was a good idea as a way to address the decline in French wine production which was a result of phylloxera. From 1875 to 1889, one-third of the total French vine area was destroyed by this root eating insect and French wine production declined by approximately 70 percent. As phylloxera spread, many French winegrowers migrated to Algeria and introduced their technology and expertise to the region where grapes had been growing since the first millennium BC; however, centuries of Muslim rule created a local population that did not consume alcohol. The good news? Wine consumption in France remained the same! In a shortsighted attempt to deal with the shortage issue, the French government encouraged wine production in its Algerian colony while limiting imports from Spain or Italy. When the phylloxera crisis was resolved by grafting American root stock onto French wines, the French wine industry started to recover and slowly production returned to a pre-crises level of 65 million hectoliters. However, the Algerian wines continued to flood the market at a lower price (decline of over 60 percent over 25-year period), negatively impacting French producers. 1910 postcard displaying an image of wine shipments departing from Oran, Algeria for France. Image from Wikimedia CommonsProtests French wine producers wanted limits set on imported wine and started to demonstrate through street protests and violence (actions directes) including mutinies, pillage, and the burning of public buildings. in June 9, 1907, the Revolte (Grande Revolte, Revolt of the Languedoc winegrowers; also known as the Paupers Revolt of the Midi) included tax strikes, violence, and the defection of many army regiments creating an atmosphere of crisis that was repressed by the government of George Clemenceau. Although the uprising was regional, the National Assembly feared that this southern movement was actually an attack on the French Republic. In response to the demonstrations, the French government increased tariffs on wine imports from Italy and Spain which was another mistake as it further increased the consumption of tariff-free imports from Algeria. Once again, French producers (including Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy) went after the government “encouraging” them to stop the inflow of Algerian wines as they wanted to protect their own “high quality wine” markets. They forced the introduction of new legislation, supporting the political representatives from the regions that agreed with their position. This fear proved to be an illusion and the movement ultimately ended in compromise, disappointment and what appeared to be a victory for

Wine

Occitanie Formed: Wine with an Interesting History

Languedoc-Roussillon Wines Languedoc wines are renowned for their subtlety and complexity and are now regarded as some of the most fascinating and dynamic wines in the world. The area produces lots of wine, exceeding production of Bordeaux, Australia, South Africa and Chile combined, representing about one-third of the French volume output that equals approximately three billion bottles of wine each year from 300,000 hectares of vine under cultivation. The largest consumers of these wines (2019) are Germany (16 percent), the USA (13 percent), the Netherlands (11 percent), the UK (10 percent), Belgium (10 percent), and China (8 percent) from 30 appellations and crus including white, red, rose, sparkling and sweet wines. The sector employs approximately 165,000 people and is the region’s largest employer, ahead of tourism and the aeronautics industry. Merger Generates New NameIn 2014 regions of France were reorganized and the former areas of Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc-Roussillon merged to create the Occitanie region. Following the merger, Occitanie became France’s largest vineyard in one continuous space in the entire world, including 263,000 hectares under vine, producing 33 percent of French wines. It encompasses 24,000 wine farms and 380 cooperatives with 36 percent of winegrowers focusing on organic farming. The Languedoc makes up approximately 90 percent of the territory; Roussillon occupies the other 10 percent. Together they represent France’s largest wine-producing region and vineyard area and more than one in three French wines are produced here. This is the birthplace of sparkling wines, although Champagne gets the credit. The Occitanie wine region has 87 AOP (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) appellations and 36 PGI (Protected Geographical Indications) designations and winegrowers are able to independently determine whether (or not) they want to produce AOP or PGI wines. First to SparkleIn 1531, at the Abbaye de Saint Hilaire (Limoux), monks found that the wine they were making started to bubble in the bottle and the rest is history. It is likely that Dom Perignon visited the abbey before residing in Champagne and “borrowed” the idea of making sparkling wine and started the process in Champagne. The three sparkling appellations of the area include Cremant de Limoux, Blanquette de Limoux, and Limoux Methode ancestral. Thomas Jefferson is known to have loved the Limoux’s fizz and it was the only sparkling wine in the personal cellar of the president. Sud de France With the desire to highlight the accomplishments of the Occitanie region, in 2006, Sud de France was started as a way to increase the arrival of tourists to its locale and offers a quality guarantee. The branding was the idea of George Freche, president of the Regional Council (2004) who noticed that, in spite of the area’s numerous economic and cultural assets, it kept a very low profile and he was determined to change this situation. Through Sud de France all agri-food and wine products of the Languedoc-Roussillon region are promoted under a single umbrella for marketing purposes. The group is currently directed by Carole Delga and includes 1,817 companies representing 5,882 products. Carole Delga in 2013. President, Regional Council of Occitanie; Member, Socialist PartyFrench politician, Carole Delga, is a member of the Socialist Party (since 2004) and has served as the President of Occitanie since 2016. From 2012-2017 she was a member of the National Assembly and served on the Finance and Defense Committee. In 2014 she briefly served as Secretary of State for Trade, Crafts, Consumer and Social Economy and Solidarity under Minister of Finance and Public Account, Michel Sapin in the government of Prime Minister Manuel Valls. Delga is noted for acknowledging the former Languedoc-Roussillon region during the creation of Occitanie (an area with 6 million citizens), not focusing on Toulouse and including local residents in her plans and programs. Occitanie/Sud de France StrengthsThe weather in the area is a plus for grape growing as the strong winds bring moisture from the sea and delivers fresh mountain air to dry the vines. The soil runs from clay-limestone (regulates soil temperature) to schist (slate) in Saint Chinian and to clay and chalk in Picpoul de Pinet. The Languedoc-Roussillon offers 30+ Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) with Corbieres, Fitou, Minervois and Cotes de Roussillon most noted in the USA. The locale is also known for its Vin de Pays wines where flexible wine laws allow innovation and winemakers produce interesting, fruit forward wines, many with depth, concentration and the potential for ageing. Winemakers are also allowed to source grapes from vineyards throughout the region and, through the Sud de France branding, consumers are able identify and select wines that meet the price/quality equation. The label, Sud de France, currently includes over 11,000 products (of which 2,100 are organic), following 24 different sets of rules. All products are reviewed by an independent group with the goal of improving name recognition in foreign markets, and a geographical focus on Europe, China and the USA. Tourism Near to Barcelona, Occitanie includes Languedoc-Roussillon and Mid-Pyrenees regions and noted by the charm of Montpellier, Toulouse and Perpignan offering the beauty of the South of France with fewer visitors than Paris and Provence. The locale presents beaches, vineyards, national parks and cultural sites, alongside hiking, biking and horseback riding trails. Because it is a notable wine producing zone and the birthplace of sparkling wine in the town of Limoux the wine/culinary adventure is superb especially in Collioure (anchovies) and Set (fish and oysters). Roussillon Wine ThoughtsAt a recent wine event in New York City, I had the good fortune to meander through a number of excellent wines from Roussillon. The following are a few of my favorites: Domaine Cabirau, AOP Cotes du Roussillon 2013. 70 percent Grenache Noir, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Carigan Noir.President Dan Kravitz purchased 13.5 acres of vineyards in Roussillon (appellation of Cotes du Roussillon created in 1977), is in the village of Maury (French part of Catalonia) in 2007. Roussillon is known for the production of dry, red, white and rose wines. The area includes the eastern half of the Pyrenees Orientales (eastern side of

Wine

Bordeaux Wineries’ Associations and Governance

Les Cotes was formed (2008) by the joining of four appellations who decided to connect and market as a group rather than as individual vineyards. The current group included Blaye, Cadillac, Cote de Franc and Castillon and together they formed the second largest appellation in Bordeaux with 12,000 hectares (30,000 acres). Since inception, exports have increased by approximately 29 percent in volume and 34 +/- by volume. The association has been able to get better prices through joint promotions and the small growers that exist in Les Cotes benefit from the consumer tendency to buy directly from properties at the cellar door. Les Cotes de Bordeaux includes: – 1000 wine producers – 30,000 acres (10 percent of all Bordeaux) – 65 million bottles, or 5.5 million cases; 97 percent red wine – Grape varieties: most wines are blends with Merlot (5—80 percent), plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. B. Vin de France (VDF). Vinicultural Freedom Since 2010, this group of wineries is noted for table wines and replaced the former vin de table category. Vin de France can include grape varieties (i.e., Chardonnay or Merlot) and vintage on the label but are not labelled by region or appellation – only that they are French. Global sales of wine identified as VDF now account for 340 million bottles annually – 10 bottles sold every second. VDF wines are wines that do not meet the criteria stipulated by AOC or IGP (Indication Geographique Progegee) appellation laws – perhaps the vineyards are located outside the delimited production area or the grape varieties or vinification techniques do not conform to the rules of the local appellations. The idea (considered innovative at the time), allowed vintners to blend wines from different regions and new combinations of grape varieties, representing a fundamental shift for a country tethered to geographic wine classifications. VDF was designed to free winemakers, allowing the production of wines that could compete with international brands and to streamline French wine, making them more accessible to consumers. French geography bound wines systems have been challenging for Americans as retailers and sommeliers were challenged to translate the appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) classification system and its complexities. VDF offers a simple way of presenting quality wine and an excellent entry point for consumers interested in exploring French wines including Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sales of VDF in 2019 counted for 1.6 million cases with North America the fourth largest market, representing 12 percent of volume and 16 percent of value sold. C. Counseil Interprofessional du Vin de Bordeaux (Bordeaux Wine Council, CIVB) In 1948 the Bordeaux Wine Council was introduced via French Law and it joins together winegrowers, merchants and traders who share a common mission: On June 28, 2019, the CIVD, looking at two years of research, recommended the addition of six heat-resistance grape varieties not previously planted in the region, to be officially permitted for use in Bordeaux blends. The change was approved out of fear of global warming destroying the entire industry. As the climate gets hotter, winemakers are attempting to work against climate caused changes in taste using many pathways to find solutions. On January 26, 2021, the Institut National de l’Origne et de la Qualite (INAO), the organization controls grape selections, formally approved the use of four new red and two new white grape varieties in the Bordeaux region including: Red: Arinarnoa Castets Marselan White: Touriga Naction Alvarinho Liliorila These varieties are additions to the grapes currently approved in existing appellation specifications. The grapes at most risk are Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc that compose the bulk of red and white vines in the Bordeaux region. Climate shifts in the late 1990s, harvest for these early ripening grapes moved to August with September 10 to October 10 being the historical harvest norms. Research suggests that these two grape varieties as they currently exist, could be useless by 2050. D. Syndicate des Crus Bourgeois In 1907, a law was passed telling growers they had to declare the size of their harvests and could only produce as much wine as their declared harvest could make. However, some growers overstated the size of their harvest (1907-08) so – they could bulk up their sales with cheap wine from the Midi or bring in wines from outside the region. Frequently the French have tried to codify quality. In 1932 the French tried to put the lesser-known chateaux into a classification system that included 444 wineries, 6 at the top-level crus bourgeois exceptional, 99 crus bourgeois superior and 339 plain crus bourgeois. In 1966, ranking was redefined by the Syndicate des Crus Bourgeois and in 1978 there were 128 chateaux listed. In 1978 the European Community (now the EU) determined that the terms GRAND and EXCEPTIONAL were meaningless and could no longer be used. From then on, all crus’ bourgeois were just crus bourgeois. This opened the gates for people outside the Medoc to use the term. How the Syndicate currently operates: Chateaux who want to use the name cru bourgeois apply to the Syndicat (cost $435). The property submits information about the operation (historical records, vinification methods, etc.) Criteria for inclusion will be: – Terroir – Quality (samples of the wines from 6 vintages to be tasted by the committee) – Standards of viticulture and vinification – Consistency of quality – Reputation Will chateaux currently using the name cru bourgeois for their second wines will be allowed to continue? Will each chateaux have its own cellar? Where does this leave cooperatives? The Committee has 18 members (at least one faculty member from the Bordeaux School of Enology, brokers, negociants, cru bourgeois Syndicat members). The wineries will be reviewed every 10-12 years. Applicants considered to be inappropriate will not be permitted to use the name cru bourgeois on their labels and will have to wait until the next review to reapply. Recently, the Syndicat reinstated “exceptional” and “superior” plus a three – tiered system to encourage producers to focus on

Wine

Making Wine Buying Easier? Les Crus Bourgeois du Medoc

You’re not the only one who finds the process of buying a couple bottles of wine for a meal or a gift complicated when you enter a store. I’ve come to the opinion that the wine industry’s retail sector is stuck in the past. There seems to be a strong conviction that wine shops and the wine departments of supermarkets currently provide the best shopping experience – ever – and that it would be sacrilegious to change how consumers purchase wine. ParalysisWhile wine retailers hang on to the past, winemakers are looking for pathways that will enable consumers to buy more wines. Wine marketing researchers have determined that Consumer Paralysis happens because wine shoppers are confronted with a wealth of options – perhaps too many choice. In addition, there is a lack of consistency from country to country on how wines are named and classified. Importing and distribution impacts on the types of wines available in local wine shops and restaurants. Brands and varieties in one shop or bar may not be available across venues because of limited channels of distribution or other marketing strategies. Even wine labels are not consumer friendly as they are written to satisfy government requirements and may not include information that is helpful to consumers. FragmentsThe wine industry is more fragmented than any other consumer product. In 2019, the US consumed 370 million cases of wine, at 12 bottles a case, that adds up to approximately 4.4 billion bottles of wine in one year. Approximately half of the US wine market is dominated by three-billion-dollar conglomerates including E&J Gallo (i.e., Manischewitz, Taylor, Clos du Bois, Etancia, and Barefoot), Constellation Brands (i.e., Woodbridge, Robert Mondavi, Simi, and Lingua Franca), and the Wine Group (i.e., Almaden, 13 Celsious, and Benziger). These corporations produce, ship, and distribute thousands of bottles of wine each year around the world and many are produced the same way Coca Cola is fashioned – to taste the same year after year and available in huge quantities. The other half of the wine market is composed of thousands of tiny to medium sized producers and can be reviewed as the difference between agri-business farming and farmers markets. TastePerhaps the best way to understand wine is to drink lots of it and take the time to taste the differences. French Try to Bridge the GapFor centuries, the French wine industry has been trying to find ways to sell more wine. They meet with each other, coordinate with each other, cooperate with each other as well as compete with each other – in order to try to simplify the complexities inherent to the wine industry. When their marketing schemes are successful, people buy more of their wines – making everyone happy. A group of winemakers that have been trying to push away the cobwebs that linger over aging wine barrels and simplify the wine buying experience are known as Les Crus Bourgeois Du Medoc. Not every winery is permitted to be a member or even be considered for membership. Criteria includes: Location. The wineries permitted to even think about joining this group must be from the following AOCs:MedocHaut MedocListrac-MedocMoulis-en-MedocMargauxSaint JulienPauillac et Saint EstepheJudgement. The wineries are judged on:The quality of the wine determined by blind tasting and consistencyTraceability and authentication for each vintageTasting checks – before bottling over a five-year period of the Classification (at least two checks per property)Environmentally friendly to the point of obtaining certification in environmental and sustainable growing practices.The 6-person judgement team is also concerned with promotions, quality of reception for professional visitors and the general public at the winery, channels of distribution plus domestic and international marketing efforts. StickersAll bottles of Crus Bourgeois du Medoc carry a unique secure visual recognition system embedded in a sticker. It is offered as a guarantee of quality, security and authenticity. Currently, more than 25 percent of all the wine produced, bottled and sold from the Medoc is classified as Cru Bourgeois and includes 4100 hectares of vines, producing over 29 million bottles of Bordeaux wines each year The Wines Les Crus Bourgeois At a recent event held in Manhattan, I had the good fortune to explore a few of the wines that are classified as Crus Bourgeois du Medoc. My FavoritesChateau Patache d’Aux (2018). Appellation: Medoc; Terroir: Limestone with clay and clay-limestone; Varieties: 67 percent Merlot, 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 percent Cabernet Franc, 2 percent Petit Verdot; Average age of vines. 40 years; Aged 10-14 months; 80 percent in barrels (1/3 new), 20 percent in concrete vats.The Chateau is situated in Begadan (northern Medoc) and 58 hectares of vineyards are spread through Begadan and Saint-Christoly du Medoc. The Chateau is located 10 kilometers from the Gironde estuary and 30 kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean. The first owners of the Chateau were descendants of the Count of Armagnac, the Chevaliers d’Aux and the family can be traced back to 1632. The property was seized during the revolution and changed into a stage coach post – known as Pataches. The wines were cru bourgeois in 1932. Notes: To the eye, deep purple hues suggest a depth of taste, while the nose finds fruit of black cherries and spice alongside the minerality of wet rocks. The palate is entertained with supple blended tannins enhanced by oak leading to an elegant and bright finish. The Chateau de Malleret has its roots in the 17th century. Pierre de Malleret was knighted for his distinguished service to King Louis XIV. The property was sold to Philiipe Frederic Clossman and his family continues to be engaged in management of the vineyard. Notes: Dark purple in the glass, the nose discovers black cherries and toasted oak. The palate experience features dark black fruit alongside toasty vanilla side-by-side with a sense earthiness. The finish is soft, fruity and elegant. Open well in advance of drinking as it opens beautifully over time. The Chateau Cap Leon Veyrin has been in the same family beginning in the early 19th century when the original

Wine

Prosecco, Venetian sparkling wine: DOC or DOCG?

I’ve consumed numerous glasses of Prosecco; some of them were fascinating, others were passable, and many more were terrible, giving them the reputation of being a cheap wine. I didn’t really comprehend the frenzy surrounding DOCG Prosecco Superiore until I had the pleasure (and luxury) of tasting Prosecco from Nino Franco. In general, as the production of Prosecco has increased to meet demand, the quality of the palate experience has declined. What passed for Prosecco at supermarket wine departments and served in glasses at local bars are frequently poor clones of what was, in earlier times, a wine that proudly stood at the top of the sparkling wine pyramid. Not All Prosecco’s Are Created Equal There is a complex interaction between environmental and human factors that influence the growth and production of the Glera grape, and there is a distinct correlation between a wine and its terroir. The interaction includes the meso and microclimate, the soil, the grapevine planting density, the trellising system, the yield of the vineyard, and the vine water status in the summer- all leading to unique combinations of grape maturity, acidity, and aroma that ultimately influences the sensory properties of the wines produced. DOC or DOCG? Now, more than ever, it is important to recognize the differences in terroir and production, and this information can be used as markers to identify the significant quality divide between Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin), and “ordinary/regular” DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). The DOCG area is dominated by the steep hillside, has a stricter production protocol, and the quality of each batch is compulsorily checked by a tasting commission before commercialization; all these tasks create a significant difference. In addition, the UNESCO designation has helped to separate ordinary Proseccos from extraordinary Prosecco. However, Proseccos that dominate the market are produced from flatland vineyards that comprise the DOC Prosecco area representing approximately 80 percent of the region’s overall production. Prosecco as a BrandTwenty years ago, Prosecco was virtually unknown outside of Italy and considered inferior to other sparkling wines. The Prosecco miracle was born from the reintroduction of the geographic origin concept that was threatened by the 2008 European Union reform, which created new wine categories. In addition, labeling and oenological practices were liberalized, and planting rights and market support measures were abolished. The Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) created a vine-planting authorization system. In light of these and other new regulations, and in order to protect the Prosecco brand, the village of Prosecco was “discovered” and, although it was located far from the original core area of Prosecco production, it provided a vector for a large expansion of Prosecco viticulture and wine production, issuing the birth of an export bubble. The expansion, supported by key institutions, regulators, and the regional political elite, put pressure on nature and landscapes inciting local protests against indiscriminate agrochemical spraying. In 2019 Conegliano Valdobbiadene became Italy’s 44th D.O.C.G., and 43 single vineyards were identified, with each corresponding to a specific hillside known for its distinct signature of wines following strict standards of production: lower yields, hand-harvested, vintage-dated. Although the industry claims to be addressing sustainability challenges, there are conflicts and tensions among the producers, growers, and local citizens. The Prosecco expansion does not address the hidden costs associated with agro-food value chains and conflicts, as commodity expansion is often linked to the appropriation of nature, landscapes, and territories and to the ability of a business to hide the social, health, and environmental costs of production. Better or BestTerroir experts find that the soil of Conegliano is young and rich, while Valdobbiandene soils yield wines that are more structured with richer fruit. As an ancient seabed, Valdobbiadene has steeper slopes enriched by fossils that contribute aromatic delicacy and minerality to the sparkling wines and produce a superior product combined with hillside exposure. The geography offers better drainage, lower yields, and optimal ripeness than other sectors of the region. The steep slopes make mechanization difficult if not impossible, and therefore growers must care and pick by hand. The basic attributes of Prosecco – crystalline fruit, bright acidity, fresh flavors of peach and green apple form the foundation of the palate experience – and then, the terroir and geography push the wine into a new space that sets off the minerality sending it into a new dimension. The Right ClimateThe Prosecco area enjoys a temperate sub-continental climate characterized by cold winters and hot, dry, and breezy summers with suitable rainfall and temperature ranges. Once the Glera grape is harvested, it is immediately pressed and clarified in large steel containers at a controlled temperature. The first alcoholic fermentation takes place through the injection of specific yeasts and lasts 15-20 days at a temperature of 16-18 degrees C, creating a base wine of low alcoholic content that is decanted and refined at low temperatures to remove unwanted sediments. In October/November, oenologists taste the new base wine to determine the various blends to be used in the second fermentation to make sparkling wine. By the end of the year, the first batches of sparkling wine are ready and preserved at low temperatures until they are bottled under pressure. ProductionFollowing the 2009 reform of the Prosecco geographic indication, the total planted area of the overall Prosecco DOC grew from 8,700 ha in 2010 to 24,450 ha in 2018. Production volume in 2021 recorded 627.5 million bottles. In 2019 DOCG production was estimated at 92 million bottles, with a sales value of nearly a billion Euros, with exports representing only 44 percent of total sales. The primary destinations for DOCG exports by value are the UK (62.8 million Euros), Germany (39.5 million Euros), Switzerland (25.1 million Euros), and the USA (5.7 million Euros). These top four importing countries account for almost 71 percent of the total value of DOCG exports. The Authentic Prosecco Experience Primo Franco, President, Nino Franco WineryPrimo Franco is a third-generation winemaker, a leader of the historic Nino Franco winery in Valdobbiadene, and considered

Wine

Israeli wine is 80 percent kosher and all male

Israel is a significant player in the wine industry, producing prestigious kosher varieties that are not simply for ceremonial meals, religious rites, or special occasions. Women are not empowered yet. This article about premium wine explains everything and provides insight. Target MarketsWho buys kosher wine from Israel? The largest export market for Israeli wines is the United States, with more than 50 percent of production directed to this target market; Europe receives 35 percent of the kosher wines, and the remainder, a growing percentage, is received in the Far East. The US is the largest potential market for Israeli wines as this country has approximately 5.5 million Jews and more than half a million Israelis living in the United States. Barkan WineryIf you have not heard this before, let me share it with you now… Israel is a major wine player, producing award-winning kosher varietals that are not just for religious holidays, religious rites, and ritual meals. Israel harvests approximately 60,000 tons of wine grapes and produces over 40 million bottles of wine (2021). There are about seventy commercial wineries, and the ten largest wineries control over 90 percent of the production. Exports, increasing yearly, are valued at over $40 million. The Beginning of Wine. Thank you, Noah.Israel is a New World country in one of the most ancient wine-growing regions in the Eastern Mediterranean, where the wine culture started. Before the Greeks and the Romans, and well before the Italians and French, the inhabitants made wine in ancient Israel. Wine is referenced in the King James edition of the Bible 233 times, while the New International Version tallies 240 mentions. In the Bible (Book of Genesis) it is written that as the flood waters receded (2350 BC), Noah, his family, and the animals, two-by-two, disembarked. Noah found a plot of land nearby and began to plant a vineyard. It may not be the very first vineyard to be planted on Earth, but it is the first documented owner of a vineyard. The area where Noah planted his vineyard is Mount Ararat, located in the Caucasus Mountains, now known as the Turkish Armenian border. Archaeological evidence confirms that this is the region near Georgia where the first wineries were established in small villages. Many wine presses and large clay jars (Kvevris) used for fermentation and storage have been discovered throughout Israel. Grapes were crushed underfoot in a shallow limestone basin. Fermentation was natural and immediate. The resulting wine was left to age in the pottery amphorae, often in cool dark caves, suggesting that groups of men and women began cultivating wild vines and growing grapes as early as 6000 BC. There was a large consumption of wine because it was safer to drink than water, and there was a very advanced wine trade. After the Muslin conquest and the founding of the Ottoman Empire, the once thriving wine industry withered away. Winemaking in the 19th century was a domestic-based occupation purely for ritual necessity. In the 1880s, Jews started returning to Israel in search of viable work. Their efforts were supported and financed by the French Baron Edmund de Rothschild, who owned the Bordeaux winery, Chateau Lafite. He founded a modern Israeli wine industry with an enormous investment by planting vineyards, building large wineries with deep underground cellars, and sending French experts, including winemakers and agronomists, to teach Israelis how to make wine. His best efforts to produce fine wine were successful as his winery is the precursor to the Carmel wine organization. In the 1980s, California experts were imported to bring about a New World wine revolution introducing modern techniques in both the winery and vineyard. In the 1990s, small wineries making wines with passion and individuality heralded the start of a boutique winery boom. In the 2000s, Israeli wine became more terroir-driven, making wine from single vineyards while identifying and separating characteristics from individual plots within a vineyard. Israel received quality recognition at the highest levels for the first time. Kosher Wines Before StatehoodIsrael has five wine-growing regions: The Negev, Judean Hills, Samson, Samaria, and Galilee-Golan. The principal producers of Israeli wine are Carmel, Golan Heights, and Barkan, who export millions of bottles annually. Today there are approximately 350 boutique wineries. Approximately 15 percent of Israeli wine is exported; of that, 80 percent is kosher, with less than 15 percent produced for sacramental purposes. Carmel is the largest winery in Israel and the largest winery in the world producing kosher wine. Barkan Cellars (owns Segal wines) is the second-largest winery in Israel and is owned by Israel’s largest brewery, Tempo Beer Industries, Israel’s largest brewer and second largest beverage group representing such international brands as Heineken, Chivas Regal, Absolut, and Pepsi Cola. Binyamina is Israel’s fifth largest winery and is owned by the Hetzi Hinam supermarket chain. Israeli ViticultureIt is NOT easy to grow a grape in Israel as there is a chronic absence of water and the coastal area is likely to be hot and humid. These challenges have been noted, and now the fastest growing regions in terms of planting new vineyards are the Judean Foothills, Judean Hills, Upper Galilee, and Golan Heights, as many of these locales rise from 400 meters to 1000 meters above sea level. Combine the Israeli sun, the hills, and mountainous areas with soils of limestone, terra rossa, and volcanic tuff, and this small country is becoming a winemaker’s dream come true. Because of the lack of rain during the growing season, drip fee irrigation is essential. It was pioneered by the Israelis in the early 1960s and is now used in agriculture worldwide. The preferred aspect of an Israeli vineyard is a north-facing slope with vines planted east to west. The cooling Mediterranean winds from the west can penetrate the rows of vines and have a cooling effect, providing ventilation and thus reducing humidity and bringing down average temperatures. o Most vineyards planted in the last twenty-five years conform to a standard – 1.5 meters between vines and 3

Wine

Spain faces less wine consumption

Because Spanish wines have improved, those of us who reside on other parts of the world are really consuming more of them. Holding Tightly onto TraditionThe country has avoided classifying exceptional vineyards according to terroir. The regulatory board of the Spanish Denominations of Origin (DOs) are skeptical of any attempt to overturn a status quo that benefits large private firms and perpetuates their power. Some segments of the Spanish wine industry prefer to Invest in marketing rather than quality control or promotion. As a result, well-known DOs such as Rias Baixas in Galicia, shaved the budget line devoted to quality control, decreasing it from 25 percent in 2014 to 20 percent in 2017 while investments in marketing increased from 35 percent to 70 percent in the same years. This is also obvious in the continuing emphasis by most DOs – encouraging high grape yields and low-quality wines. A significant percentage of Spanish wine exports are directed to low-price countries including France, Germany, Portugal and Italy where lower prices are related to the sale of wine in bulk. Although the cheapest average price paid by this group has remained relatively stable in recent years, the reality is that they are losing their share of total exports in terms of value. Countries paying a higher average price (including the US, Switzerland and Canada) have not only increased their prices but also their market share. What is NEWIn response to the decline in local consumption, Spanish wineries are adopting innovative marketing policies based on new market research data. Historically, the traditional wine consumer preferred wines that were plain, inexpensive, fermented and consumed on a daily basis. Contemporary Spanish and Southern European consumers drink less wine than their parents and much less than their grandparents. Research suggests that the current profile of the average wine buyer in the Mediterranean European region is under 50 years of age, university educated, and in a high-income bracket. For this group, buying wine is a planned process and consumption is a “gastronomic ritual” that is practiced “occasionally.” Another reason people living in Spain are drinking less can be attributed to beverages that are replacing wine in Southern Europe, including beer, soft and sparking drinks, FABs (flavored alcoholic beverages), fruit juice and other liquid refreshments. When wine is the drink of choice, it is considered “fine wine” and priced accordingly. Marketing studies carried out by the Spanish Wine Association established that less than 8 percent of respondents under the age of 24 drink wine. Spanish youngsters see this drink as old and unattractive. They also think you have to be an expert in order to enjoy wine therefore limiting wine consumption to “experts.” Other causes for change include increased temperatures in the south of Spain favoring the consumption of cold beverages such as beer and soft drinks and the fact that these refreshments are supported by vigorous advertising campaigns. The wine sector does not actively market its products and there are legal restrictions for alcohol consumption based on age. Wine Culture DisappearingWine was a part of a Mediterranean lifestyle and this diet is being replaced by fast-food. Researcher E.V. Astakhova finds that this change in wine consumption by Spanish youth is very serious and “the loss of tradition, including the wine culture, is dangerous for the society. It will have negative consequences for the country, will cause damage to its attractiveness for investors and tourists and hurt the very image of their motherland the Spanish hold dear.” According to Astakhova, the wine culture must remain intact as it is “part of the national heritage, material and spiritual culture of Spain.” Traditionally, the Spanish wine sector has been highly fragmented. Small wine cooperatives and big companies are part of the same market although quite different in terms of production size, wines produced and cash flow. Some Spanish wineries are small and cooperatives lack adequate marketing savvy, sales networks and registered brands; in addition, they are dependent on a distribution network that is strongly concentrated and the industry tends to be vertically integrated. This is particularly onerous for some wineries causing an excess of supply and decrease in demand. In the US and Australia, large wineries produce massive quantities of wine using different types of grapes with homogeneity in variety allowing important economies of scale and creating a high-quality product at a value price which reflects investments in technology, and marketing. New wineries are more market-oriented than Spanish wineries which are too focused on their own product and production. In addition, wine companies in Europe are concentrated and oriented toward international markets with a new focus on designations of origin. Many small wineries have developed national promotions and marketing strategies which would have been difficult to carry out individually. Consumer Look Beyond WineThere are many explanations for the transformation of the wine culture in Spain that go beyond price, changes in personal income, cultural and social factors. The rise in income and the higher standard of living due to industrialization and urbanization is linked to a population more concerned with health and fitness and therefore a lower consumption of alcoholic drinks. Winemakers have a choice. They can make wines that make them happy, or produce wines that make consumers happy. The marketing strategies of wineries aimed at different consumer segments are more likely to successfully increase wine consumption in the Spanish market. Changes in the demographics of the population have changed beverage preferences to options that are better adapted to the demands of young, urban people. A recent study of the Spanish wine buyer found that one segment of the local consumer market seeks wines that “match their food;” however, this characteristic is linked to age. The older the respondent, the greater the preference for a food connection. Older people buy premium red wines for special gatherings with friends and family where food is present and are more likely to use specialty shops to buy their wine. New eating habits, with an emphasis on a healthy life style and physical

Wine

Triumph of Italian wines

Why do you write about Italian wines? is a question I get asked a lot. The solutions are straightforward: The Italian Wine SceneWine is produced everywhere in Italy making it the world’s largest producer. Over 702,000 hectares (1, 730,000 acres) of vines are under cultivation and offer (2013-2017) and annual average of 48,3 million HL of wine. In 2018, Italy accounted for 19 percent of global wine products, beating France (17 percent) and Spain (15 percent). The Veneto region led production in 2020 producing enough wine to generate 543 Euros worth of exports. Most of the wine produced in Italy is sent to the United States, Germany, and the United Kingdom. Italy is the second largest provider of wines to the United Kingdom and received almost 646 million British pounds worth of wine from this Mediterranean country in 2021. The wine industry has played an important role in Italy’s overall economic development. The sector currently employees more than 1.3 million people (directly and indirectly), and the number is constantly increasing as the sector grows. The enlarged wine industry – including tourism, manufacturing, processing and marketing, posted a Euro 10.6 billion turnover in 2017, with a 5 percent increase year on year. RegionsThere are over 20 different wine growing regions in Italy and more than 2000 wine brands. Piedmont, Tuscany and Veneto are the three major wine producing regions. Located in the Alps, the area is covered with hills and delivers frosty winters. To the East of the Piedmont region lies the coastal Apennine Mountains, separating Piedmont from Liguria and the Mediterranean Sea. The Alps and Apennine mountains create a favorable climate for grape growing. Looking for a warmer climate? The Po River valley in the Southeast is the place for making wines from Nebbiolo (Italian native grapes) and famous for Barolo, Gattinara, and Barbaresco. Piedmont produces Moscato d’Asti – a delicious white sparkling wine, and Vermouth. This wine region has the most Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita (DOCG) bottles in Italy. The DOCG designation is the Italian system for identifying wine regions and wine names. Wines with a DOCG label are submitted to tougher requirements than those labeled D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), including tasting approval. The main grape is Sangiovese. The region is divided into smaller production areas with the most important: Brunello di Montalcino Famous for 100 percent Sangiovese Brunello grapes where the quality is good, but the quantity is limited. In 1980 Brunello di Montalcino was one of four wines awarded the first DOCG title hence the price is high. The wine reveals sweet notes of dried figs, candied cherries, hazelnuts and toasted leather. Tannins turn into chocolate and deliver luscious acidity. Chianti 80 percent Sangiovese grapes are used and sometimes Canaiolo Nero grapes (produces a red wine) and Colorino are included and up to a maximum of 10 percent white grapes (Malvasia and Trebbiano). Other grape varieties cannot exceed more than 15 percent and may include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Chianti Classico The wines must include 75-100 percent Sangiovese grapes and/or Canaiolo (up to 10 percent). Trebbiano, and Malvasia (up to 6 percent). Other grape varieties are permitted but not more than 15 percent. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vino Nobile is made from Prugnolo Gentile grapes (a cloned variety from Sangiovese grapes) and referred to as Sangiovese Grosso, plus a few other varieties. Super Tuscany wines are wines of excellent quality that do not follow traditional rules. All bottles are IGT class and highly regarded by wine connoisseurs. The Veneto region is the second largest producer of wine in the country after Apulia, with a far superior quality. Each wine is made from different grape varieties leading to diversified taste experiences: Soave. White wine from 70 percent Garganega grapes, the rest is Chardonnay, Pinot or Trebbiano grapes. Dominant tastes of Soave vary from lemon peel, sweet Honey Dew melon, salt, green cashews and coriander. Valpolicella Red wine from Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella grape varieties and present a light body that is best served chilled. This wine shares the characteristics of Beaujolais and noted for its cherry flavor. Bardolino This Venetian red wine holds a DOC certification and the Superiore (a longer aged wine) holds a DOCG status (2001). Grape varieties include the Corvina vine (35-65 percent) and Rondinella Classica of Veneto (10-40 percent). Other grapes used in smaller percentages include Molinar (10 -20 percent) and Negara (maximum of 10 percent). The wine is produced along the chain of morainic hills to the east of Lake Garda. The Event A dominant figure in the Italian wine space is James Suckling who organizes and produces humongous wine events in NYC, Miami, and other major international locales. In Manhattan, Suckling recently presented over 220 wines a day (for two days) showcasing wines that achieved a 92-100 score. My Personal Opinion Chianti has an Italian heritage that dates back 3 centuries. It is important to note that there is a difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico. a. Chianti Classico – Wine must include at minimum of 80 percent Sangiovese grapes – Only red grapes permitted – Grapes can be grown only in Florence and Sienna provinces in specific locales – Designation derived from the fact that it covers the original townships where Chianti was first produced historically (Castellina in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti – all in the province of Siena) – Must be aged at least 10 months before being bottled b. Chianti – 70 percent must be Sangiovese grapes – Up to 10 percent white grape varieties allowed – Aged 3 months before bottling – Chianti Superiore (a designation withing Chianti) aged for a minimum of 9 months Notes To the eye, a burnt sienna trending to black. The nose finds lots of sophisticated cherry tempered by spice, raspberry jam and violets plus blueberries. Soft and delicate on the palate it is balanced and elegant. The delicious finish (with hints of almonds) fortunately lingers long and is luscious. Serve in a large “Bordeaux” glass. Notes