Wine

All about Kosher wines

A growing number of people worldwide are “going kosher,” and by 2025, it’s expected that the market for kosher food will likely surpass $25.6 billion. The craze for kosher food and drink is healthy for you and healthy for your soul since those items follow the guidelines set forth in Jewish Dietary Law. Before being certified kosher, all the ingredients in the food and beverages as well as the machinery used to produce the products are carefully screened. Whether you are kosher, non-kosher, vegan, vegetarian and/or are challenged by allergies, the kosher section of supermarkets00000 and wine shops are likely to be the safest place to find ingredients for brunch, lunch and dinner. The transparency in food and beverage preparation and ingredients and the ease in identifying the kosher information on the label brings back the joy of cooking. The largest producer and importer of premier kosher wines and spirits recently introduced thousands of hungry and thirsty gourmets, gourmands, soms, oenophiles, beverage retailers, industry professionals, and journalists to a plethora of delicious kosher food, wines, and spirits from all parts of the planet. The Annual Kosher Food & Wine Experience (KWFE) event is a kosher foodie’s dream come true. This year the event marked the 17th annual experience, demonstrating that the interest in kosher food and beverages is increasing each year. Royal Wine executive, Gabriel Geller, finds that “The show’s success underscores the fact that the kosher food and beverage industry is exploding at a warp speed…” The celebration of everything kosher is held at Pier 60 Chelsea Piers, the largest waterfront venue in Manhattan that offers 20,000 square feet of luxurious column-free space. KWFE fills the space with hungry/thirsty people who know a great event when they see it; consuming more wines, spirits and food in a few hours then they probably devour in a week. For 6-hours, guests who paid between $161-$241 per person, experienced nonstop samples of everything kosher and palate experiences ranged from Meh to Fabulous. Food, Food, and More FoodKosher cuisine has never been more diversified and delicious with options inspired by the French, Japanese, American steakhouses, traditional Jewish cooking, nouveau American, charcuterie, fusion, Caribbean, authentic barbecue, and Mexican plus desserts and specialty coffees that were stunning in both appearance and taste, heavenly rich in nuts, cinnamon, and chocolate. Funny, You Do Not Look KosherMost of the kosher food in the world is consumed in the USA although only 2 percent of Americans are Jewish (approximately 7.5 million people); however, 41 percent of all packaged food in the US is certified kosher (Quartz Business News). While food sales are growing 1-2 percent annually, kosher food sales have increased more than 10 percent for more than two decades. Perhaps the growth can be attributed to the “crossover kosher consumer,” a group that includes vegetarians, the vegetarian inclined as well as consumers who are lactose intolerant (20 percent of the population) or suffer from food allergies. Other religions requiring strict dietary rules include Hindus, Muslims, and Seventh-day Adventists. In the USA there are an estimated 75,000 kosher consumer goods (up from 60,000 in 2000) with sales in excess of US$165 billion annually. Kosher food sales in Canada grew almost 20 percent in one year, from $480 million in 2000 to $575 million in 2001. These compelling numbers drove mainstream giants like PepsiCo, KraftCanda and Krispy Kreme to obtain kosher certification for some items. Since 2003, Campbell Soup has had kosher products and other companies are adding kosher to their product/marketing mix as kosher may represent one of the few opportunities left for market share expansion. What Kosher MeansDerived from the Hebrew word meaning FIT or PROPER, it refers to foods that meet the strict requirements discussed in the Old Testament; it does not mean being “blessed by a rabbi.” Kosher food has undergone an exacting process of inspection and supervision to ensure its journey from farm or factory to plate and adheres to the law of Kashruth (kosher). Getting to KosherBasic kosher rules: For a product to be kosher all of its ingredients must first be certified kosher. This is not difficult because the majority of food ingredients in North America (as many as 70 percent) already meet kosher standards. The next step is the initial inspection and assessment of the processing plant by a member of the certifying agency’s rabbinical staff. The basic annual fee for kosher supervision of packaged products ranges from $2000 to $5000, depending on the complexity of supervision required. If the equipment has been used to manufacture non-kosher products, even if was 10 years ago – Kosherization will be required. The process of sterilizing equipment by bringing it to extremely high temperatures may involve the use of a blowtorch, hot coals or hot steam before the equipment can be used to produce kosher products. BrandKosher is a brand! As a brand it includes the discrete trademarks of varied certification organizations and collectively the symbols communicate to consumers which products meet kosher standards. The marketplace power of brands gives products considerable economic value. While the power of the brand over other trademark holders contributes to the value of the final product it is hidden from consumers; however, it is critical for a brand’s durability. ProfitabilityOne of the principal organizations creating the kosher brand is The Union of Orthodox Jewish Congregations of America (UOJCA). Its efforts are maintained by Orthodox supporters who seek to expand kosher options available to observant Jews. These activities, in concert with other certification agencies, have made kosher designations financially valuable to food, wine and spirits producers. The extra profits for the firms that decide to make their products comply with kosher requirements generate sufficient revenue to create a new and robust income stream for Orthodox certification organizations. The substantial monetary benefits accrued are quantifiable measures of their successful branding efforts and support Orthodox Jewish endeavors including paying the salaries of hundreds of clergies, and laity engaged in kosher supervision activities, with significant surpluses funding Orthodox educational and promotional

Wine

Shopping for kosher wine and food

Globally, more and more people are “going kosher,” and by 2025, the market for kosher food is predicted to be worth more than $25.6 billion. The craze for kosher food and drink is good for you and good for your soul since those items adhere to the rules and laws outlined in the Jewish Dietary Law. Before being certified kosher, all the ingredients in the food and beverages as well as the machinery used to produce the products are carefully screened. Whether you are kosher, non-kosher, vegan, vegetarian and/or are challenged by allergies, the kosher section of supermarkets00000 and wine shops are likely to be the safest place to find ingredients for brunch, lunch and dinner. The transparency in food and beverage preparation and ingredients and the ease in identifying the kosher information on the label brings back the joy of cooking. At the end of the day, what a hungry consumer is looking for is good food, a delicious glass of wine and a smooth scotch (or vodka, gin, etc.). The Torah addresses food by creating the laws of kashrut within the parashah (weekly Torah portion) of holiness, links food to relationships with G-d. Nachmanides (a leading medieval Jewish scholar, Sephardic rabbi, philosopher, physician, kabbalist, and biblical commentator), noted that the traits of cruel unkosher animals transfers to the one who is eating them. The rules even advise that a woman who must eat non-kosher for medical reasons should NOT nurse her baby at the same time, but rather, find another woman to nurse (or use infant formula). Kosher food was a serious focus at the recent Kosher Food and Wine event in New York. Many of the innovative food purveyors represented meet the demands of the gourmet and the gourmand: Knowing that a product is certified kosher enables the consumer to trust that the food on the plate is clean and healthy and does not include allergens such as shellfish. It also offers certainty for vegans as in the case of Oreo cookies, which, prior to their switch to kosher (late 1990s) contained lard (pork fat). Kosher WineNot all wines are created equal. There are many guidelines for wine producers who want to be included in the kosher section of the wine shop: To be kosher, the yeasts and fining agents plus cleaning products must be kosher. The fining agents are used by some winemakers to remove colloids or unwanted aspects of a wine including clarification for color, aroma or bitterness and stabilization. These agents bind to the unwanted component and can be filtered out. Traditionally these agents included dried blood powder; however, today they typically include two categories – organic compounds from animals and solid or mineral materials. Organic compounds include: egg whites, isinglass (from a fish bladder), gelatin (from animal collagen) or casein (derived from milk). Solid/mineral materials include: pulverized bentonite clay, activated charcoal carbon and potassium ferrocyanide. Many winemakers prefer not to fine their wines as they are worried about losing important compounds for aroma and flavor. The rising demand for vegan and kosher products has played a role in which fining agents, if any, are used. As popularity for “natural winemaking” increases, winemakers look for the most natural finished product and try to avoid fining agents. Wine industry leaders like Edmond de Rothschild Heritage estates, and a new winery from the Ben Zaken family (owners of Domaine du Castel) presented sparkling wines as well as blends of Syrah and Carignan at the Kosher Food and Wine event. Wines from France were well represented with appellations from Bordeaux, and the Rhone Valley. Herzog Wine Cellars, owned by Royal Winery in Oxnard, CA presented Baron Herzog and Herzog Generation III. Major players from Israel included Carmel, Yatir, and Barkan while South Africa introduced wines from J. Folk and ESSA. Kosher SpiritsIf it is alcoholic and made from fruit (i.e., wine and brandy), it can only be handled and bottled by Jews and must be certified kosher (look for the circle U: means approval by the Jewish Union or a capital K). For a spirit to be kosher it must have the official symbol, and made from grain or sugar. It cannot be made from grapes and cannot be aged in a non-kosher wine barrel; therefore, Scotch whisky (or anything else) that has been aged or finished in a sherry, port or wine cask is a NO NO. All other ingredients used and the distillery itself, must be certified kosher. Most things that start in the ground are kosher including barley, wheat and rye. For whisky to be kosher the distiller must ensure all the individual ingredients (yeast and enzymes) are kosher. In addition, the equipment must be kosher. This is a challenge for the Jewish holiday of Passover for according to kosher law, a Jew may not own anything which is produced from the primary grains like wheat, rye, or barley which is leavened. These items are referred to collectively a chametz. Jewish owned whisky companies need to sell their chametz prior to Passover each year or else their products are no longer considered kosher. Ordinary Scotch Whisky whether Single Malt or Blended without any mention of the use of sherry, port or other wine casks on the label or marketing literature, can be consumed confidently without any Halachic concerns relating to potential contact with ex-wine casks. No additives to Scotch Whisky are permitted, with the exception of caramel color which is kosher. As far as Irish Whiskey is concerned, as a direct result of the work of the KLBD with the distillers, Irish legislation has been changed and it is no longer permitted to add flavor enhancers (including those which are wine based) to Irish whiskey. Therefore, all whiskey bottled in Ireland since mid-2009, without any mention of the use of sherry, port or other wine casks on the label or marketing literature, can also be consumed confidently without any halachic (guides religious practices and beliefs and many aspects of day-to-day life) concerns. In

Wine

All about Port Wine

The soil, fruit, and blending expertise of the Oporto vintners result in wines with a distinctive character and flavor. Portuguese legislation has great control over the area. Red Port Tawny. Tawny port is a blend and matures in cask (wooden barrels), changing its color to produce a mix of nuts and fruit flavors that are prepared in small batches. Many tawny ports are categorized as premium and can be aged for many years resulting in layered taste sensations. At the source. Red wine forms the foundation for many ports. Red wine contains the heart-protective antioxidant resveratrol. Research suggests that cancer, diabetes, and Alzheimer’s disease can be prevented using resveratrol’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities and is also good for arthritis, skin inflammation and enhances the immune system. It is also recommended for physical and mental health, weight loss, improved heartbeat rate, assists in the reduction of stomach inflammation, manages cholesterol levels and promotes strong mental health. The medical attributes have moved consumers from hard spirits to light alcohol. The health benefits are expected to increase the expansion of the market size as there is a preference among younger generations for premium wines for personal use and gifts adding to market growth. The coronavirus pandemic in Spain and the rest of Europe led to an increase in the consumption of Port wine because of its taste, health benefits, and lower acidity compared to whiskey or beer. Port wines are varied and available as blackberry and raspberry, cinnamon, caramel, and chocolate. White PortWhite Port is usually made from a blend of white grapes including Esgana Cao (Sercial) and Malvasia Fina. The blend is regulated by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto. The production process is similar to red Port; however, the maceration period is shorter. The alcoholic fermentation is arrested by introducing a neutral grape spirit of about 77 percent alcohol by volume. The process, known as fortification, results in a fortified wine that is high in sugar and alcohol. A white Port is likely to display a golden color and emits aromas of honey and nuts with low acidity and sweetness levels ranging from off dry to fully sweet. Sweet Ports (lagrima= tears) are fermented in tanks (sometimes wood to impart color and complexity). White Port should be served chilled in a white wine glass or mixed with equal parts of white Port and tonic or soda water in a cocktail glass with a lime wedge. It is perfect for sangria when the fruit is macerated in the white Port before mixing with a bottle of white wine. Unopened, white Port will keep for years; when opened, refrigerate for up to one month. Produced The Romans are presumed to have produced wines in Portugal after crossing the Douro River (137 BC) to conquer the Celts in what was then called Lusitania. The intensive planting of vineyards in the Alto Douro is traced to King Denis’s efforts in the 14th century to promote agriculture throughout this region. Winemaking grew thanks to the British and they granted special trading privileges in the period after Spain recognized Portugal’s independence under the 1668 Treaty of Lisbon. The British expanded its wine interests in Portugal after first levying heavy duties and then a ban on French wine in the late 1600s in response to Louis XIV’s protectionist policies. As the British increased their businesses, they began to experiment with additions to Portuguese wines. An abbot in a Larnego monastery added brandy to halt fermentation as it turns sugar into alcohol. By arresting this process, Port retains a sweetness while the brandy strengthens the alcoholic content. The Methuen Treaty (1703) increased British imports of Portuguese wines by reducing the duty on these wines compared to that assessed on French wines. Drinking Port became a patriotic cause for the British to retaliate against the French. Dr. Samuel Johnson, “Claret is the liquor for the boys: port for the men…” (Life of Samuel Johnson, 1791, Vol III), and poet Jonathan Swift (18th century) is noted for determining, “Bravely despise champagne at court. And choose to dine at home with port.” By the end of the 18th century, the British were importing three times more Port than they do today, even though the UK’s population is now much larger. Terroir The Alto Douro region in northern Portugal has the climate, soil, and topography needed by the grapes to produce Port wine. Extremes in weather, from scorching summers to cold winters, combined with rocky soil create highly concentrated flavors in the grapes imparting a unique and memorable flavor profile for Port. Lying beneath the soft, phosphate-rich stony soil (schist) from which the terraces are carved, is solid volcanic rock. When torrential rains pound the region, the narrow 70-degree terraces constructed along the gorge’s side help prevent wines from washing away. The water soaks through the schist to collect above the non-porous volcanic rock, creating a reservoir of water that the vines and roots tap into during the dry summers. The surrounding mountains of Maro and Alvao e Montemuro protect the vineyards from harsh winds coming off the Atlantic Ocean. Who Drinks Port?The average consumer is aged 50-55. Even if you sit at your local bar (in the USA) for days/weeks on end, you are unlikely to see many people drinking port as most consumers are located in Europe and popular in the UK. In 2020, the global port wine market was valued at $942.02 million and is projected to reach $1371.26 million by 2030 increasing at a CAGR of 4.26 percent from 2022 to 2030. The largest market segment is tawny port in terms of market share (2020) and this sector is expected to retain its dominance through 2030. The Port Wine Institute Regulates ProductionCountries guided by the European Union laws determine that only Portuguese wines from the Douro demarcation region have the right to be labeled as PORT as a method to protect the traditional and economic importance of the product and region. Usually, it is served

Wine

What wine to drink?

If so, you must have been attending Vinexpo/Drinks America (Javits, NYC) for a few days. Immediately add missing this event to your 2024 to-do list if you did. I am not alone in applauding this impressive program. I was able to sip my way through wines/spirits presented by over 440 exhibitors, representing 32 countries and considered to be the largest business-to-business trade show in the universe, dedicated to wine/spirits professionals in North America. If you buy, sell, write, review, or drink – this should be added to a to-do list. The global alcoholic/beverage market is estimated to be valued at $560.04 billion (2022). The growth rate of this market is projected to be 9.4 percent with an estimated value of $802.02 billion by 2026. As of 2022, revenue in the alcoholic beverage segment in the US reached $261.1 billion with a projected growth (from 2022-2025) of 10.51 percent per year. This two-part series includes: Part 1. Spirits Fuel the Economy An alcohol trend in 2023 suggests consumers are pivoting to spirits over beer as they are looking for “adventures” available through new cocktails. Successful brands will balance something new and wonderful without going over the edge…consumers want both familiar and unique. Part 2. Importance of Wine? Win/Win A review of the wine industry and how the new demographics and psychographics of the consumer is pushing the sector to morph every aspect of the business, literally from the ground up and through to the consumer. Old? Now New!Over time, wine has changed the way it is grown, produced, and consumed. Centuries ago, it was part of an everyday diet and used as a basic source of energy, especially for laborers, farmers, and working-class people. Now it has morphed into a hedonic good basically enjoyed in free time and on social occasions with strong status symbol implications. Wine, once traded as a bulk commodity is now considered a luxury, and fashionable. In high-income countries and/or among higher-income population groups, attributes related to culture, traditions, emotions, tourism, and discovery, the experience of novelty, self-identity, and signaling of social status – all contribute to motivations for the purchase and consumption of wine – in addition to aroma and palate pleasures. It is also interesting to note that wine is no longer bought to “just” be consumed; in some situations, its value increases with time, and it is bought and kept like other investments. Wine may be acquired, not as a substitute for beer and spirits for immediate imbibing, but rather as an alternative to art masterpieces or to other financial assets in portfolio diversification strategies. Not the Wine of Your GrandpaIn the wine industry change in demand has led to variations in one of the most complex agri-food industries and one of the most sophisticated agri-food products. Production technology has evolved in the vineyard and winery and the entire process has transformed. Grape cultivation has also been altered, reducing the number of varieties and the diffusion of a small number of ubiquitous vines that are spread globally. The wine itself has changed because of the different grapes used for making wine and an increased focus on quality and diversification in addition to the new emphasis on sustainable, organic, biodynamic, and ethnic attributes. The supply side has been transformed because of pressures that include a demand for a quality upgrade and product differentiation to better meet changing consumer interests. At the MarginsGrape production remains fragmented although in some countries grape growers and wine producers have been converted from small households only partially market-oriented to larger specialized companies better able to participate in national and global value chains. Additional influencers of transformation in the wine industry include wine technicians, oenologists, wine experts, wine journalists, and communicators – all basically related to process management, quality improvements, process and product certification, communication, and promotion. There is a new emphasis on the “wine experience” linked to a strong need for providing information and quality guarantees along the value chain and channels of distribution – all the way to the final consumer. Segmenting Wine ProductionIt is rare for the production of wine to be segmented; however, global companies have affirmed their role as traders and retailers as well as in their part as producers and packers due to multinational investment campaigns. The result? E-CommerceOnline shopping is directly impacting small producers and larger retailers operating on a global scale resulting in small producers who, thanks to a shorter supply chain, are able to increase their visibility in the final consumer market and capture a major share of this space. Economic Benefits of Wine IndustryWine is produced in 50 states in the USA. The production, distribution, sales, and consumption of wine benefits many sectors of the economy and generates approximately $276.07 billion in economic activity. In addition, it preserves agricultural land, provides American jobs, attracts tourists, generates taxes and enhances the quality of life. In the USA the wine industry includes approximately 10,637 producers (in 50 states) as well as 119,420 acres of vineyards. The industry provides over 1,007,459 jobs plus 364,234 positions in supplier and ancillary industries that offer goods and services to the industry and their sales depend on the wine industry’s economic activity. Ultimately, 1,844,901 jobs are created and supported by the wine industry. On average, employees in the industry earn $51,800 in annual income and benefits. The total wages generated by direct, indirect, and induced economic activity driven by the wine industry are approximately $95.49 billion. The industry also generates tourism and “wine country” regions produce 49.18 million tourist visits and $16.69 billion in annual tourism expenditures, benefiting local economies and tax bases (wineamerica.org, 2022). The wine industry generates tax revenues on the local, state, and national levels. In 2022, the industry paid approximately $8.15 billion in state and local business taxes, plus $14.67 billion in federal business taxes for a total in excess of $22.83 billion. The industry also generates almost $875.28 million in federal consumption taxes and $7.27 billion in state consumption taxes which includes

Travel, Wine

Sakartvelo: Best Wine Destination

They all traveled to the Republic of Georgia and were so taken aback by its specific wines (among other distinctive features) that they wrote about them when they got home. Georgia Oozes HistoryIf you live in Georgia, you are most likely to call your country Sakartvelo. Some research suggests the name “Georgia” originated in the Middle Ages when Christian crusaders passed through the region on their way to the Holy Land. At the time it was part of the Persian Empire and locals were known as Guri who were devoted to St. George a patron saint in the Middle Ages acknowledged by England, Catalonia, Venice, Genoa, and Portugal because he was the personification of the ideals of Christian chivalry. The Crusaders made the connection and named the country Georgia. Early Georgian winemaking was documented in a medieval hymn, “Thou Art a Vineyard” that was dedicated by King Demetrius (1093-1156AD) to his new Georgian Kingdom. The hymn begins, “You are a vineyard newly blossomed, young beautiful, growing in Eden.” Georgian wine was held in great esteem by the Assyrian kings who amended their laws that permitted residents to pay their debts in wine instead of gold On the other side of history is Joseph Stalin. He was born in Georgia and gained infamy as a revolutionary in the Russian Empire becoming the political leader of the Soviet Union from 1924 – 1953. Some continue to revere him because he defeated Hitler; however, most view him as a tyrant responsible for the brutal slaughter of his own people. Location, Location, Location The highest mountain range in Europe is the Caucasus Mountains, creating the border between Georgia and Russia. The highest peak may be in Russia; however, the second highest peak, Shkara, is in Georgia (17,040 ft) beating Mount Blanc by almost 1312 feet. Located 600 miles east of the Bosporus, Georgia is located in Asia, bounded by the Black Sea to the west, Russia to the north and northeast, Turkey to the southwest, Armenia to the south, and Azerbaijan to the southeast. The country covers 26,900 sq miles with a population of 3.7 million people. A third of the population lives in Tbilisi – the capital and largest city with 3.7 million inhabitants. Wine Part of HistoryWinemaking in Georgia is part of its history as the process started over 8,000 years ago and many consider the Republic to be the “cradle of wine.” Throughout the centuries, Georgia has been invaded, pushing ancient winemakers out of their vineyards. Fortunately, there was a tradition of saving saplings for transitional cultivation which enabled viticulture and winemaking to survive. Legend states that Saint Nino, the first preacher of Christianity in Georgia, created her cross from grapevine stems and entwined the stems with her own hair. It is also believed that the monks of the Alaverdi monastery contributed to the preservation of the qvevri (aka kvevri and tchuri) method. Georgia’s wine producers flourished in the Middle Ages, as the eastern Mediterranean region was rocked by the Crusades. As a Christian nation, Georgia was left unscathed by the Crusaders and was able to develop its agriculture and commerce in relative peace. Later, it remained outside of the Ottoman Empire, whose Islamic Sharia law prohibited wine consumption. Wine production flourished in Georgia until phylloxera and mildew arrived from the Americas in the late 19th Century. The pest devastated almost 150,000 acres (60,700ha) of vineyards. When Georgia came under Soviet control a few decades later, vineyards were replanted in their thousands to meet expanded demand. However, the late 1980s saw a dramatic about-face in the Soviet Union’s attitude to wine. Mikhail Gorbachev’s aggressive anti-alcohol campaign effectively crippled Georgian wine exports. The country has enjoyed only brief periods of political stability since it declared independence from the USSR in 1991. Tensions between Georgia and Russia continue today, as evidenced by Russia’s 2006 embargo on Georgian wine imports, which was not lifted until June 2013. Georgia’a Qvevri Method Qvevri are large earthenware terracotta clay vessels used for the fermentation, storage, and aging of traditional Georgian wine. The container resembles large, egg-shaped amphorae without handles and can be buried below ground or set into the floors of large wine cellars. Amphorae are made with handles and qvevri do not have handles, differentiating the functions of each. In ancient Greece and Rome, amphorae were used exclusively for the transportation and storage of edible products such as wine and olive oil and not for wine production. Qvevri have always been part of the winemaking process and are unsuitable for transport because of their size and, of course, they are buried in the ground. During the final stages of qvevri construction, the insides of each vessel is covered with beeswax (the pots remain porous and allow some air to pass through during the fermentation); the beeswax helps to waterproof and sterilize the vessel allowing winemaking a more hygienic process and the vessels are easier to clean after each use. Once they are installed underground, when cleaned and maintained correctly, qvevri can be used for centuries. Initially, the qvevri of ancient Georgia were large enough to accommodate the needs of a family. As demand increased the qvevri were enlarged enabling the production of a higher volume of wine per vessel. As size increased the clay structures became unstable under their own immense weight as well as the buildup of pressure during fermentation. To assist in the stabilization during the process, winemakers started burying qvevri underground. This was a surprisingly smart move for by moving the production underground they discovered the ancient form of refrigeration (temperatures are cooler underground). This enables a longer maceration period for the grapes on fermenting must, which would otherwise cause the wine to spoil above ground. The extended maceration period develops an increase in aroma and flavor profiles in qvevri wines. UNESCO named the qvevri method an intangible Cultural Heritage site in 2013 The ProcessGrapes are partially pressed before they enter the qvevri for fermentation. In some regions, the skins and stems

Wine

Hercules Mulligan: New Taste Experience

Do you like rum?” “Yes, I do.” “Do you like rye?” “Not so much.” I was curious but not overly concerned when I was given the chance to  drink a combination of three Caribbean-aged rums and three aged rye whiskeys that had been infused with bespoke bitters and macerated fresh organic ginger. Stimulus The recipe was inspired by the American Revolution (1765-1791). During this period in history, there was a colonial boycott of British rum from the Caribbean, motivating the colonials to start distilling rye whiskey. Rum was the preferred beverage of the period and many mixed the rye with the rum to stretch the rum. CarefulAs a wine writer, I approach a new release with caution. I look for color. Unfortunately, the dark opaque bottle kept the hue enigmatic. Then I studied the label. A bit off-putting as it displays an open scissor and a thimble. My nose was anxious to smell the contents. Fortuitously there was a reward waiting for me. The aroma presented one of my favorite drinks – rum, with overtones of cherry, cinnamon, and honey. Carefully I poured a small amount of Hercules into my glass. I am a cautious drinker and there is no need to be wasteful. The liquid in the glass presents a lovely light goldenrod hue and with air to breathe, the aroma sends delicious whispers of honey, spice, and rum to my nose. Anxiously I take a small sip and…it is absolutely delicious; this is heaven in a bottle. I poured a little more for me, and then shared it, straight up, with my guests, filling their glasses almost to the brim. Yes, I was being generous, but this is a taste experience that must be shared and shared with generosity. When is the perfect time to sip? Just about always. It is perfectly paired with a hot black tea or demi-tasse coffee on a long winter evening. Delicious enough to stand on its own or over a few ice cubes; it is too good to mix with anything else. What’s The Story? Okay. No more mysteries. Hercules Mulligan Rum and Rye pays homage to an Irish immigrant who was a friend of Alexander Hamilton (1770s), became an entrepreneur, as well as a spy and hero of the American Revolution. Mulligan was one of the first colonists to join the Sons of Liberty (founded to advance the rights of the colonists and to fight taxation by the British government), and the New York Committee of Correspondence (members corresponded with each other to express ideas, to confirm mutual assistance and coordinate resistance to British imperial policy). Hamilton suggested Mulligan become a spy for the Continental Army. He had proximity to the enemy (British military). As a bespoke tailor, he outfitted the high-ranking officers and New Yori’s super-rich at his shop located in lower Manhattan (1774). By flattering them, stroking their egos, offering them Spirits, and asking the right questions, he gained insight into the enemy’s movements. He could figure out the British actions by noting when the officers needed their uniforms returned. After gaining information he sent his slave to ride to Washington’s headquarters with the information. On two separate occasions, his information prevented General Washington from death and/or defeat. OriginatorsHercules Mullins is produced at a craft distillery in Upstate New York. Mario Mazza is responsible for making and bottling the spirit at Five & 20 Spirits & Brewing, a family-owned distillery in Westfield, Chautauqua County. Steve Luttmann, a New York City drinks entrepreneur and the founder of Rum & Rye is also credited with creating LeblonCachaça. Previously he was Senior Vice President of Marketing at LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton in New York (2002-2005). He has also been associated with Unilever where he was responsible for product introductions in South America and various divisions in the US, Brazil, and Austria, and was the Marketing Director for Lipton Tea & Beverage. Luttmann obtained his MBA from NYU’s Stern School of Business (1992) and graduated from Penn State with a BS in Finance and Economics (1987). Grisa Soba, the co-founder of online drinks distributor, Flaviar, is from Slovenia and grew up in the beverage industry as her father was employed in Slovenia’s largest brewery. He became more immersed in the industry as he trained himself in distilling, creating his own absinthe and vodka. As an advertising executive, he worked on the Pernod Ricard account in Europe. Ryan Malkin is an alcohol beverage and cannabis industry attorney who has been associated with Pernod Ricard. Malkin has also been an Assistant District Attorney in Manhattan, prosecuting white-collar crimes, and a staff writer for SmartMoney, specializing in travel and hospitality writing with a focus on the beverage alcohol industry. Hercules Mulligan Rum & Rye was inspired by Ron Chernow’s biography of Alexander Hamilton, one of America’s Founding Fathers. The book also provided the spark for Lin-Manuel Miranda’s award-winning Broadway musical, Hamilton. 

Wine

3000+ Years of Winemaking: The Blessed Fruit!

The fruit of the vine is one of the seven blessed fruit varieties found in the land of Israel, according to the book of Deuteronomy. According to the Book of Numbers, Moses sent spies to scope out the Promised Land. They returned with clusters of grapes so large that they had to be suspended from a pole and carried by two men. Today, both Carmel Winery and the Government of Israel use this image as their logo. The grapes were selected to symbolize that the land flowed with milk and honey; the vine links one of the blessings of the Promised Land –the promise to the children of Israel. Then came King David (3000 BCE, approximately) who is reported to have had an extensive wine cellar with a staffer assigned to selecting wines for his meals (the world’s first sommelier?). Wine production was halted in 600 BCE by an Islamic invasion and the vineyards of Israel were destroyed. Monks living in monasteries and Jewish communities practicing religious rites were permitted to include wine for sacramental purposes – but – nothing else. Wine from Israel was exported to Rome during the Roman period and the industry was temporarily revitalized during the control of the Crusaders (1100-1300). Although wine restarted briefly, the invasion and control of the Ottoman Empire (1517-1917) put a full stop to wine production in Israel for 400 years. It was not until the 19th century (1848) that a winery was opened in Israel by Yitzhak Shor; unfortunately, the wine was exclusively used for religious purposes. Finally, French-born Baron Edmond James de Rothschild recognized the opportunity for the wine industry in Israel and the rest is history. The Rothschilds know about wine – this is the family behind the Bordeaux, France, Château Lafite Rothschild. Their billion-dollar investments (starting in 1877) included vineyards as well as educational opportunities so that residents could learn how to make quality wine in the country. The impetus and support of the Rothschild family sparked the Israeli wine industry and Carmel Wine Company was started in 1895, selling wines of Rishon LeZion and Zichron Ya’akov, establishing the modern-day wines of Israel. During the early 1900s, Israel was focused on independence (in May 1948, Israel officially declared an independent state) and winemaking was halted. Finally, in the 1970s, it was resumed and modern winemaking techniques were introduced making wine for enjoyment and not just an alcoholic beverage for religious purposes. In the 1980s California experts were brought to Israel to introduce up-to-date techniques that impacted positively on the winery and in the vineyard. In the 2000s Israeli wine became terroir-driven making wine from single vineyards as well as identifying and separating characteristics from individual plots within a vineyard. Israel harvests approximately 60,000 tons of wine grapes and produces over 40 million bottles of wine yearly. The industry supports 70+ commercial wineries and the ten largest wineries control over 90 percent of the production. Exports are valued at $70+ million. Over 55 percent of the exports head to the USA, approximately 35 percent is directed to Europe and the remainder is shipped to the Far East. Attributes of IsraelIsrael is an Eastern Mediterranean country bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west and surrounded by Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt to the north, west, and south. The land mass is approximately 7,992 sq. miles and stretches 263 miles from north to south, supporting a population of 8.5 million people. The mountain ranges include Mount Hermon/Golan Heights, Mount Meron in Upper Galilee, and the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth. The combination of sun, hills, and mountainous areas features soils of limestone, terra rossa (reddish, clay to silty soil with neutral pH conditions with good drainage characteristics), and volcanic tuff creating a winemaking paradise. The fertile part of the country has a Mediterranean climate consisting of long hot dry summers and short cool rainy winters with snow occasionally appearing on the higher elevations, especially the Golan Heights, Upper Galilee and Judean Hills. The Negev Desert covers more than half the country and there are semi-arid areas. The major impact of the climate is the Mediterranean Sea with winds, rain, and humidity coming from the west. Rain in the winter is very limited and because of rain shortages during the growing season, drip feed irrigation is essential. This technique was pioneered by the Israelis in the early 1960s and is now used throughout the world. In the VineyardMost vineyards planted in the last 25 years conform to a standard: 1.5 meters between vines and 3 meters between rows. The usual vineyard density is 2220 vines per hectare. There is a preference for mechanical harvesting allowing a night harvest to be completed in a few hours, at the optimum time, and brought to the winery in the cool temperature of early morning. Canopy management is very important in a hot country and it is necessary to reduce the vigor of the vines and protect the grapes from over-exposure. Most vineyards are cordon spur pruned in a VSP vertical shoot position. Some older vineyards are planted in a goblet, bush vine format, and in the Judean Hills, some vineyards are planted in stone-lined terraces. The older vineyards may not need irrigation as the roots of the vines have dug deep into the stony soil over the years and receive the water required. These vines are hand harvested. Wine RenaissanceCurrently, Carmel is the largest winery in Israel, controls almost 50 percent of the local market, and is the third largest Israeli industrial company by sales volume (Dunn & Bradstreet, Israel), with sales of $59.2 million and an annual growth rate of 5 percent +/-. Carmel produces almost 20 million bottles a year; the closest competitor is Barkan-Segal winery. Carmel had a humble beginning. The organization started in 1895 and exported wines to Poland, Austria, Great Britain, and the US. In 1902, Carmel Mizrahi was started in Palestine to market and distribute wines to the cities of the Ottoman Empire. By

Wine

What is the Slow Wine?

Born in Bra, his skillset was proper when he and his colleagues formed the Friends of Barolo Association. The group produced a catalog of wines, including data sheets with a narration of each label that eventually became the Vini d’Italia guide. Wine Enters PoliticsIn Italy, Petrini viewed the emerging American fast-food movement in horror. He saw the decline threatening local food traditions, and the appreciation of “good food” was disappearing. In retaliation, he started a counteroffensive in Italy (1986), pushing against opening a McDonald’s near the historic Spanish Steps in Rome. In the same year (1986), 23 people died drinking wine adulterated with methyl alcohol (a chemical found in antifreeze). This poisoning rocked the Italian wine industry and forced the suspension of all wine exports until the wines could be certified as safe. The deaths directly resulted from consuming Italian wines with methyl, or wood, alcohol to raise the wines’ alcohol content to an average of 12 percent. The contamination was not found in quality Italian wines usually exported to the USA under labels marked as DOC (Denominazione de Origine Controllata), referencing Italian laws controlling quality wines from the vineyard through production and sale. The scandal was attached to cheap bulk wines sold to neighboring European countries for mixing with their local wines. The inexpensive, unpedigreed wines sold as vina di tavola for regional export and local consumption at bargain rates were so inexpensive that only adulterated wines could be profitable. However, the horrific nature of the crime leeched through the entire Italian wine industry, and the episode smeared every wine product and producer. As a result of the poisoning, Denmark banned all Italian wine imports, following in the footsteps of West Germany and Belgium. Switzerland seized over 1 million gallons of suspect wine, and France seized 4.4 million gallons, announcing it would destroy at least 1.3 million gallons found to have been tainted. Government warnings were sent to consumers in Britain and Austria. Everyone, everywhere, challenged the credibility of Italian wine, raising new awareness of the industry across all sectors. Getting Over ItWhen France and Germany identified and confiscated large quantities of tainted wine, the Italian Agriculture Ministry issued a decree that all Italian wines had to be certified by a government laboratory and carry a certification document before being exported. This requirement further froze Italian wine exports, and the government admitted that out of 12,585 samples, 274 had been found to contain illegal quantities of methyl alcohol (NY Times, April 9, 1986). In 1988, Arcigola Slow Food and Gambero Rosso published the first edition of the Vini d’Italia guide. This document was followed in 1992 with the first edition of Guida al Vino Quotidiano (Guide to Daily Wine), which included reviews of the best Italian wines from the value-for-money perspective. It became a valuable aid for daily wine selections. At the start of the 21st century (2004), the Wine Bank was developed to promote Italian wine heritage through training courses and protecting wines destined for aging. Three years later (2007), Vignerons d’Europe, in Montpelier, the Salon du Gout et des Saveurs d’Origine celebrated 100 years since the revolt of the Languedoc winegrowers. The first edition of the Vinerons d’Europe united hundreds of European winemakers in a debate over the challenges created by an ever more globalized world, acknowledging the growing crisis facing the wine industry from the perspective of economic impact and the public face of Italian wines. A Monumental Change. Slow WineUp to this point, wines were reviewed numerically. From Robert Parker and similar reviews, consumers learned to read the numbers, and the higher the Parker score, the more likely the purchase of that specific wine would be made. In addition, current vineyard practices included using (abusing) fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides to combat pests, diseases, and mildew that impacted wine productivity. However, synthetic herbicides wreak havoc on the environment and degrade the soil and land, making it unusable, causing water runoff, pollution, loss of soil productivity, and other environmental hazards. Enter the Slow Wine movement with grassroots, global wine emissaries who prioritize the conservation of natural resources through land stewardship. In 2011, the Slow Wine Guide was published, shifting the focus from the numeric value of wines to the macro environment that includes factual details of wineries, the producers, and production areas. The Guide was applauded for being more than a list of significant players; it moved consumers’ attention from numbers/point scores to describing the winemaking style and agronomic techniques employed.  In 2012 Slow Wine Tours were introduced and included visits to wineries in New York, Chicago, and San Francisco. In the following years, wineries in Germany, Denmark, Japan, Canada, and Slovenia (2017). In 2018 California was visited, and 50 wineries were reviewed. In 2019 Oregon was included, followed by Washington State. Most recently, the Slow Wine movement reviews wineries in China, including Ningxia, Xinyang, Shandong, Hebei, Gansu, Yunnan, Shanxi, Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Tibet. Alliance The Slow Wine Coalition was formed in 2021. It is an international network knitting together all segments of the wine industry. This new wine association started a revolution based on environmental sustainability, the defense of the landscape, and the socio-cultural growth of the countryside. The organization produced a Manifesto with a focus on good, clean, fair wine. Importance of Slow Wine Movement: Road MapIt is a challenge to enter a wine shop, walk the wine aisles in a supermarket or peruse an online wine-seller website. There are hundreds (perhaps thousands) of wines from every part of the planet and a vast array of price points, reviews, and opinions. How is the consumer going to know how to make a wise decision? Is the consumer interested in color (red, white, or rose), fizz or flat, taste, price, country of origin, sustainability, and/or a myriad of other questions that impact the purchase and the taste experience. The Slow Wine Guide offers a roadmap to the wine buyer, clearly and concisely presenting farming practices, and advocating for wineries that follow the ideology (pesticide free).